PS. For the tank cap seal, I've found a conical waste pipe seal (domestic plumbing) does the trick well enough (for now) - not perfect; it suits not here tight.
Standard it is, I believe - the round knurled knob, which opens -anti-clockwise. I blew up the fuel tube -it seems unrestricted; When I dismantled it I noticed no screen, but I shall check again.
So can the tiny filter in the fuel line tee-piece between the two carbs..........(have I already mentioned it?)
AH, That I haven't inspected. I did blow down the tube - it seemed unrestricted too. But I shall dismantle it to clean, right away. Thanks. ll get a fuel top up today. Battery charged. Spark seems weak, so I'll also do some measurements , check earth before I attempt to fire up. Bear with me. BTW if you haven't guessed, the avatar shows a fine pair of old lawn spikes - not my riding clogs; possibly a better avatar than none at all.
Don't laugh! OK - laugh: On closer inspection, with filler cap off I find no blockages in tank tubing, nitrile tubing removed and with a partial refill, I observe the movement of pump that sounds so happy to work with my repair of soldered terminal to broken post. And LO! She is blowing bubbles! I've got the wires the wrong way round apparently. And, to tell the truth I discounted that earlier, thinking it would make no difference in positive and negative to such a pump. Did you know that? Can it be true? It's drying out and I'll re-do it. John
Just switch the wires over in the harness plug and slide a coloured sleeve over each to show that's what you have done.......you get the wires out of the plug with a very thin watchmaker's screwdriver.....push the tag down on the pin....(you can see it inside the hole) and pull the pin out of the back of the plug.
That is what I'de like to do.... From Haynes electrical diagram, I see from left to right the main harness female tank plug is ; - (1) Red/Blck to engine stop switch (+ve), (2) Blck to earth, (3) Blue to general relay via fuse 4 (also serving turn signal relay), (4) Brwn/White to low fuel warning lamp (+ve) . The male plug from tank unit has, to meet from left to right: - (1) Red, (2) Blck, (3) White, (4) Blk I found both (1) and (2) are in my electrical circuit testing, continuous with the pump terminals. (each continuous with both pump terminals - a closed circuit). Does that mean it is safe to swap the two, (1) and (2), and that the blue main harness wire (3) from relay is a +ve feed earthed finally by the warning lamp? (hope I am clear, with my question). Gracias, John
If you are saying you have connected the two pump wires incorrectly in the tank; ie, you have got your wires crossed........ ............then to save you the trouble of going back into the tank you could try switching over the two shown in the photo. You could first test it by separating the plug halves; then shoving a wire into the harness connector holes, crossing them over and then into the other half of the plug..... The red wire is definitely the pump +ive feed, because I have an inline switch in mine so I can test electrics without the pump running. The far left black in the picture, may have a white trace line as well.
Yes, That's what I did, cross them over inadvertently. I have taken off the cap anyway - easily after recent dismantling, in order to better test the rigid fuel lines and pump action. I had found the tap permitted a little fuel to pass when screwed shut and open again, and suspected the pump. I am going to swap the leads around at the pump after all, this afternoon. For any one who contemplates soldering a wire to broken post on a working pump: It is quite tricky, take all precautions and be steady to avoid frustration. The post must be filed clean and straight. Clean the solder wire itself. Pre-solder the terminal to join with a low heat. The post end will likely be broken close to plastic casing. It needs to be pre soldered. You need to be deft in order not to melt plastic and get a mess and no join. It takes a fair deal of accurate focussed heat though to get the required speed of meld - I used a mini gas flame, abandoning my attempt with an electric soldering iron, seeing the hotter tip was too large for the space offered. The work needs to be held steady. Be accurate with your flame, keeping it away from the outlet pipe. I have a good solid connection. Because I soldered the round wire terminal connector to the post stub, it's stub protrudes on which to detach the wire in future, and re-solder very easily. I would say it is a more sound electrical connection than a mere bolt down terminal.
Yes, you yung'uns here, That's what every one should be familiar with by now! (possibly not) (-: Arquebus, I've completed that part and pump still runs, but not filled her up because I took the opportunity to give the cap a touch of primer because it was a wee furry. And, I might have said (but didn't ) the two pump terminals appear to have no markings - certainly on mine at this age. So, if you dismantle, first mark the pump for its' specific coloured electrical conduit. Further info: the pump's terminal posts may pop out of the plastic casing when you warm it, even without melting that plastic. It happened to me just now with the relatively slow heating of a soldering iron on one socket . They have a socket underneath which houses a spring whose other end contacts the internal coils. I found the post could be reassembled just by pushing it in. If you need to give it more grip to the casing, consider applying some araldite; however, I didn't need to this time, the plastic must have contracted as it hardened.
Pump and tank successfully re-installed and delivering fuel nicely. Helicoiled float bowl holding nicely. Thanks folk for kind supervision. John
Today I started her up. Battery on way out, soon flattened, but found enough time to discover that she needed full choke in that time to half-heartedly fire on this warmish day. Gave it a couple of hours charge, and switched pilot progressively from 2 turns out to three and half, (the recommended setting by dynojet for a 600 monster/SS) and she fired up beautifully. Running strongly, but at first a little back fire every couple of seconds - on just one cylinder I suspected. Throttle seemed a wee tad sticky in going back to idle. I was going to weaken the mixture a little, but following up with a quick restart I noticed no backfire on this second time round, and throttle quickly settled down after a while to idle when revving. Perhaps the carbs were 'running in' with new fuel, and warming up; and the exhaust may have been partially to blame with previous owner's running problems of late. I'll find out when I come tune her up properly with balance and mixture. Unfortunately my old balance for the Norton was stolen. Anyway , I'm pleased. Sounds lovely. A fair bit to do before I take her to the road; fork seals are shot (no pits thankfully), and I want to balance the carbs, check over the stator gaps, and valve gaps etc.. There is the broken right hand mirror/indicator and riser to replace. I'm not intending to restore to showroom, but get a reliable decent ride.
You might find that the slow to settle back to idle is because the throttle stop screw / tickover may be set a bit too high. The forks IIRC will be Marzocchi, so they are much easier to deal with than the Showas. What's the damage to the mirror? I have repaired one on the bike and one on a car which had more than a quarter of the shell missing.
@Arquebus Thanks, I'll check the throttle stop as I tune, though I set it as low as I could. However, I've discovered one float chamber is overflowing - possibly the needle and seat. I'll have to give them another going over. I imagine that may be responsible...? Yes, I was reading some old posts, and it seems that the Marzocchi's will be easy to rebuild. The mirror in question is an aftermarket combined indicator and mirror mounted in place of old. I have no originals. The bike was sold with the fairings, but removed. Hence the combined indicator. I see they costs £14 on eBay; They're OK - the originals appear to be more substantial and better looking. Not sure if I should fix on the full fairing or not... eventually. What do you say? I imagine its a good idea overall.One had a little crash damage crudely repaired with fibreglass kit. I could work on that. I should post a picture shortly. Hope you mend nicely. John
