959 959/899 Suspension

Discussion in 'Panigale' started by flatstick959, Jul 4, 2016.

  1. Have a look on eBay. Now & then the ohlins come up for sale. I got mine through the forum for a great price & only a year old. Wicked piece of kit. Looks the mustard also. image.jpg
     
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  2. No mate, just abba stand and remove the small fairing infill to gain access to front mounting bolt, it's a seriously easy job.

    Think the mounts are 45nm, it's scary that it all mounts on the strength of a bolt being pushed sideways


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  3. IMG_8169.JPG Just to balance things up Ohlins gold,maybe for sale soon along with steering damper and r&t forks.
     
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  4. That's odd, I can't see how a rear shock change would require a tank lift! You don't go anywhere near the tank to remove and refit the shocks.

    I've got a Nitron NTR1 on mine and I love it, transformed the bike for me. Definitely worth investing money on either a new shock or re-valve on the 899.

    [​IMG]


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  5. To get the cylinder head cover off you need to lift the tank apparently and this is required according to the ohlins instructions

    Only thing I can think is the larger body hits the plastic head cover - looking at the photos above though the cover is still in place. Weird.
     
  6. Interesting

    what bike is it off and what weight rider etc? How much for the shock?
     
  7. No mate you dont need to lift the tank at all,well i defiantly did not lift the tank when fitting mine.
     
  8. All off a 899,was sprung for a 15stone chubb,who now is near a 16stone chubb,would be looking for the going rate, £600 shock,£1650 forks,£180 damper,will know by the end of the month if they will be for sale,
     
  9. Simmy, let me know on the Ohlins steering damper when it goes up please :)


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  10. What are your rebound setting's front and rear? There's not enough rebound damping on the front and rear as standard.

    Bounce the front watch the return. Does it come back up and stop at original point it was at? If it goes past it again then add some rebound. Do the same on the rear and try to get them rising the same rate.

    For a reference my 1299 standard settings are 10 clicks out front and rear. You have to go in to 6 clicks at front and 5 rear to get them rebounding at same rate and not rebounding then compressing past original starting point (bouncing essentially).

    Get this set and you'll find a massive difference. It made a noticeable difference on both my panigales.

    However as Phil says the rear is shite and needs revalved. I was all for getting mct to do my 899 before getting rid.

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  11. @Phill748 ,yes mate i will post up all the parts if i bag a anni,you are top of list for the damper along with ginge who wants some bits.May part x the rims for a set of standard black ones.
     
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  12. These bikes need loosened up a bit for road use for my liking. I use mine on the road so it has to be compliant. To do this you need to get the suspension using up most of its travel with a little margin left for safety. I'm average sized so these settings suit me.
    Front. Preload turn fully anticlockwise then 2 turns clockwise(8 clicks)
    Both compression and rebound damping fully anticlockwise(minimum
    Damping). Even at this setting there's still loads of damping and control from the front end as long as you are not breaking lap records.

    Rear. Preload set at 16mm (measured from the bottom of the spring to end of the threaded part of the shock).
    Compression and rebound set as per the comfort settings in the book.
    For example compression fully anti clockwise, and rebound turn fully
    Clockwise then turn 15 clicks anti clock wise.

    Try these. Go easy at first to see how you like it. It's the best I can get it to work with standard kit. For Mr the forks are good and work well. I'll run it like ths for now and will probably get the shock sent to MCT for them to do their magic during the offseason.
    Also try running the tyre pressures at around 32psi front and rear. The book settings are too harsh.
     
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  13. i feel like I got the front rebound set some where near (-4 turns from full in) and compression at - 6 turns

    The rear just doesn't settle down though and doesn't work with the front


    Spoke to MCT again and will be sending my shock off tomorrow (if my ABBA stand comes in time!) to get reworked.

    I will do the fork oil and springs over the winter maybe.
     
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  14. Here is mine. A converted ohlins TTX from an 1199s. All in was £400

    image.png
     
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  15. My rear shock has been sorted by MCT and is now on its way back to me.

    MCT received it Friday morning and have done their magic and sent it back today, which is pretty good going.

    Darren said my shock is tested and is spot on now, so really excited to try it out!
     
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  16. Scope out a few local jumps beforehand [emoji41]
     
  17. What do they actually do? New spring and set up or just bin it and send you an ohlins?

    I'm sure its not cheap, so being nosey.
     
  18. Spring is fine for my weight so don't change that

    They modify the internals to allow the oil to flow properly as there is a fault with the shock as standard which doesn't allow the oil to return and the piston tries to compress the oil, which causes the bouncy behaviour

    He said my bike will be transformed anyway so looking forward to trying it

    I was literally at the point of going to the BMW dealer and test riding the S1000RR, I was so sick of the poor ride on the bike - hopefully this works


    He also advised softer front springs and different oil for my weight, which I will have done over the winter when I take the bike off the road
     
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