916 Ducati Racing Rev Counter - Nooooooo!!!

Discussion in '748 / 916 / 996 / 998' started by Lazza, May 1, 2018.

  1. It’s the Rev counter used with a P8 “big brain” ecu as fitted to 916 Strada and 9*6 SP/S models.
    The Rev counter looks the same as a standard 9*6 Rev counter but it has electronics that only work with the P8 ecu.
     
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  2. Thanks, I didn’t know that.
     
  3. I think P8 has crank AND timing pickups, whereas 1.6M only has crank.
     
  4. P8 Rev counter is for an SP or SPS or early strata,,
    The standard 916 996 run a 16M ECU which has a different pulse pick up so the Rev counter is wired differently inside though the clock itself looks identical, a P8 will do both M16 and a P8 but the 16M will only do the 16M ECU’d bike
     
  5. Good to know, I have a 748 and I'll keep this in mind if I ever need a whirlymeter. Thanks!
     

  6. Hi. Excellent work and a good bit of guidance thanks. Mine is a 2001 Neil Hogeson rep 996 with a cracked speedo glass. I'll definitelt be a bit braver now. By the way, is it glass or plastic? Thanks again! Stan
     

  7. Hi. Well I've got a bit further. THe side lights do just pull out of the headlight assebly so no having to worry about breaking them any more. The speedo glass can be repaired with a bit of skullduggery involving a razor to gradually brwak down through the side of the black rim and the Tripmewter know does actually come off as it is only held there with a small (very small) screw. I fact if you can get the trip know off you don't have to dissassemble the whole F***in clock assembly!! The headlights can be cleaned out with a damp rag and a long reachy thing of any particular kind but must be left i the sun to dry out completely before reassembling. I'll let you know how I get on with the speedo glass. I have mnanaged to find a copany io Germany that will make and send a new glass for 15 euros which isn't bad! Cheers Stan
     
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  8. as said, a lot of luck involved as the original bonding is usually on two faces and you can only access one face with a scalpel. I've removed a few over the years and success rate, leaving white (or other) plastic body fully intact is about 1 in 5. Have since admitted defeat and resorted to (as neatly as possible) decapitating whole of top(glass, bezel and top portion of instrument body) which I think Richard has described with pictures. Cutting off in a lathe would be best result (but you still have to crudely re-attach at present..).

    as for why it happens, controversial and various, A spill of brake fluid will do it in time, but a certain method is to expose to extremes of temperature in a short period e.g, a cold or frost night/ a hot day, instrument bathed in sunlight.
     
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