749 Tachometer Showing 0 At Idle

Discussion in 'Technical Help' started by Jamie Denny, Jul 4, 2020.

  1. Interesting! Thanks for letting us know.
    Do you have to reset the odometer etc..or just replace the tach?
     
  2. I'm not sure how much it shares with 749, it doesn't do the "checking sweep" on first ignition on for example, but maybe later 1000DS do (mine's 2003). There's no way of resetting odometer without using external software - something chrisw could probably do. I have dismantled the faulty one and examined (no signs of corrosion/nothing obvious) but wouldn't trust myself to swap tacho unit but I can see it's possible.

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ducati-7...396638?hash=item3da17e08de:g:4psAAOSw5BNemQ12
     
    #22 Chris, Jul 5, 2020
    Last edited: Jul 5, 2020
  3. out of interest:-

    A6A68638-C66D-483B-A68B-5CA593933691.jpeg C751C3ED-D6BE-4909-BE97-5BD10B5AE2F2.jpeg 4D56C4B5-9C73-4717-A287-F45E98AC2541.jpeg

    you can see the 4 main pins leading into the unit and the windings, 2 are soldered at the top (as oriented in pic) but the other two show no sign of solder.

    That's the end of my input now really, i've just tried mine again in it's bare state and tried lightly flexing and tapping but no change (already left it on a radiator overnight!). The fact that mine consistently "tries" for around 3 seconds/behaves normally every time on initial start-up makes me think it's a component failure and the tacho unit itself is probably fine. Someone, somewhere very possibly knows exactly what this is by the failure symptoms but I will just get used to no tacho for now.
     
    #23 Chris, Jul 5, 2020
    Last edited: Jul 5, 2020
  4. The soldering is normal. If you look closer you will see the two with solder are connected to the copper winding of the tacho motor by thin copper wire.

    If you have a multimeter then you will find continuity between the two pins with solder. There is also continuity between the two pins without solder.
     
    #24 chrisw, Jul 5, 2020
    Last edited: Jul 5, 2020
  5. yes, guessed it was normal, just interested in the method of attachment.
     
  6. Thanks for posting that really interesting.

    Just checked and the tacho sweeps every time it also showed the corrects revs but the battery was at 11.9 after being on the trickle for the weekend, on ignition (but not crank) it drops rapidly and only just about starts.

    Hopefully new battery in tomorrow
     
    • Thanks Thanks x 1
  7. Just for ref:
    I phoned Scorpion Electronics today and spoke to Mark, who would examine and see if repairable. They have many years experience with similar problems. If not possible then just £25 charge. If repairable then £140 minimum fee and possibly more.
     
  8. Well new battery in, it holds 12v+ with the ignition on now. I still didn't see it charging more than 13.7v on an hours ride but it was north london traffic mostly.

    The bike idled at 1k fine until about half way when it was hot 97 degrees ish. The tach showed an idle at 2k whenever I stopped for the rest of the ride.

    Got home, switched it off and waited 30 seconds before switching it back on when it idled at 1k revs again.

    Not sure if the change in idle is standard form but it did actually sound like it was idling at those revs rather than a false reading. It's the second ride so I can't be sure.

    Thoughts?
     
    • Like Like x 1
  9. That's not bad for a fix I suppose
     
  10. I should add, this little cheeky sucker is flapping in the wind. I assume it should have at least a cap on the end?

    IMG_20200706_200453.jpg

    IMG_20200706_200447.jpg
     
  11. 030671B3-361E-4B50-83F2-4E606A2CDEC0.jpeg Number 11 in photo. Described as Finish Line Sensor.
    There should be a plate on the frame for it to slot onto (look on the back of the connector to see how it mounts). Think it is for the GPS accessory that links to the dash/lap timer.
     
    #31 chrisw, Jul 6, 2020
    Last edited: Jul 6, 2020
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