No, the bike rotates regularly, it seems that it can start at any moment but that does not happen. The spark plugs are new, they are perfect and they are adequate.
the reason folks are asking about battery voltage and starter condition is that it can draw down the voltage at the ECU and switch off the coil drivers within the ECU during cranking. itermittently. even with a big vehicle battery.
The battery I use is usually connected to a battery maintainer and has a voltage of 12.6V. When I connect it to the bike, a voltage of 11.9v usually appears on the JpDiag. I use this battery to start my wife's 3.0 diesel V6, and she starts it perfectly several times in a row, so I don't think there is a lack of power. And the starter motor turns with speed, not poorly. I don't think a new motorcycle battery will move the starter better than this one.
yip. i'm talking from personnal expeiriance with my 1100 tyring similar methods to diagnose a similar fault with a healthy bit of knowledge and expeiriance with ECU's of that era. but in your case i do think it's more likely an ecu compatabilty/fault issue.
I wrote for neutral switch because it was happen .For this reason I wrote to grounded his cable on engine case.At the start ,the ECU see neutral but when the starter motor turned ,a faulty neutral switch change parasitic the status in the ECU. Now. Your neutral switch is ok ECU and battery ground is ok Battery is ok Crank sensor is ok Injection relay is ok What is wrong the ECU don't can the injector test poor spark and no fuel at start phase Is the ECU damage? If you put off the 20A Fuse 49 ,which errors the ECU show at the software?If she shows coil, injectors,relay errors I think the injectors ecus drivers working and the ECU is ok..You can disconnect also the injection relay or once injector to see the errors.If the ECU is ok why she doesn't working? The current supply at the ecu is faulty or the cable lines between injector and ECU are wrong..The ground cable which you put is very huge.You can transfer it as a picture.Between + battery and starter relay.It was happend in another multi .This cable was faulty and the ECU current dropped in a another multi
If the neutral switch did what you say, the ECU would stop the starter motor, right? I have noticed that sometimes the green light on the instrument panel goes out, and the starter motor works, but if I engage a gear it stops immediately, so I think the sensor works. I will change the cable to the battery positive, but the starter motor turns very well. And I'll try all those things that you say. The point is to discard things and I hope that in some of them the exhaust pipes will thunder.
if its pumping fuel in and the plugs are sparking i'd expect a few backfires and pops to be honest , would think the sparks would ignite the fuel at some point ?
The spark plugs give very good spark when I test with JpDiag, but not when it turns with the starter motor. At that time the spark only appears a few times and very poor. I still have to check that the injectors put gasoline in the cylinders, the pump works and pressurizes the lines, but I don't know if the injectors work. Everything indicates that they do not, but the ECU is the main suspect that they do not. Is the next step
When recommissioning one of my bikes recently, I used the huge battery from my wife's SAAB. It seemed to spin the starter very happily, but the bike just wouldn't start. I tried with another car battery that I keep on a charger, showing 14v, same thing. So I did what I'd been avoiding and went to the faff of removing the battery from my Morini Granpasso and wiring it up, the bike fired and ran perfectly immediately. The more I read of your issue, the more I'm convinced you need to put a new bike battery in your bike
I have a new one waiting for the bike to start to put it on. But this weekend I'm going to put it on and try to start it. All ideas are welcome and I appreciate your experiences.
i'd take the spark plugs out and crank it over for a bit you should be able to smell if there is fuel or not, it's probably the easiest cheapest thing you can check, no point checking anything else if you arn't sure there is any fuel getting through.
I have a problem with that, I passed the covid in December and I have not recovered my sense of smell.
What you could do is to remove the plugs and put a dry cloth or tissue over the plug hole, make sure it can’t get sucked into the cylinder. Crank the engine a few times and then see if the cloth/tissue is wet. I find the blue disposable tissue that comes on big industrial rolls of commercial kitchen/garage wipes works best as it gets darker when wet so it’s easier to see.
Hi all, I haven't read all of this thread but did read the beginning where 3.5bar was mentioned. Well I too enjoy a bit of mix and match, and have a 94 M900 with an S2R 1000 lump fitted and use a Denso fuel pump off an early R6. Recently decided to change the fuel supply pipe work to a non-return set up and used a later R6 with integral pressure control valve. Had a load of problems with excess fuel pressure, found out working pressure had been increased post 2005, hence my problems. The standard Ducati relief valves for a 2004 m1000 is 3bar. By the way you may have helped me overcome my problem, because the bosch regulator you identified looks just like the Denso item, so I just need to find the 3bar version. Hope this is of some interest, Bitza.
As we continue, I have bought an ECU compatible with the original mine. This is the Original This is the one I bought. Now I have to find how to remove the immobilizer, because logically it does not work. I am attracted to reading and loading maps, but I don't know how to modify it. What program do you use? Make it easy to use.
ohh friend ,your 2nd ecu (iaw5am 610,map....203) is compatible for your bike...Anyway try with new ecu . free software is here https://www.von-der-salierburg.de/download/GuzziDiag/ download the IAW5xReader V0.28 (5AM, 59M) copy and save the map of your new ecu.The process lasts about 20 minutes download the IAW5xWriter V0.24 (5AM, 59M) and write a map which i will sent you (bybass immobilizer,dp 103).Remove the .pdf eding before write the map.This map i had found i n the net.The process lasts about 5 minutes. download the GuzziDiag V0.50 and choose breva 1100 or download IAWDiag V0.50.They are diagnostic software.Reset the tps and do the tests coils,injectors pump,etc.. becarefull your new ecu 103 is sensitive to read and write maps.The 610 is stronger for this job.You must have very good contact between diagnostic ground cable and bike.Also in the positive cable.The battery must be above 12,5v on the bike.
It saddens me to hear that. I have spent my money for nothing. I think I'm running like a headless chicken, I'm going to try to focus on the things I have to do. I will go checking and ruling out the possible failures and in the end the solution will appear. 1.-Connect a new ground wire between the starter motor and the battery 2.- Put a new battery, which is already charging. 3.-Write in my ECU the map without immobilizer. 4.-Reset TPS. 5.-Test pump, coils and injectors. (Pump and coils work with HW610 ecu, so I think the problem is not there) If this doesn't work 6.-Remove the injection body and test injectors and signal from the ECU. If none of this works, find a deep and dark well and throw it inside, turn around and not look back.
The first five points made, it still does not start. I have installed the ground wire and the new battery. I have placed the ECU HW103, I have reset the TPS, it does not give any error in JpDiag, the pump works but the coils do not. I have replaced the HW610 ECU, reset the TPS, it does not give any error, the pump works and the coils also. I do not understand anything. I'm going for the Sixth, and I'm looking for the well.
I have removed the 49 (20A) fuse and I only get an error, faulty fuel pump circuit. I have disconnected an injector and no error appeared. I have put a light bulb in the injector connector, I have tested the injector in the JpDiag and the light has not come on. Looks like it's a fuel failure. I will remove the injection body and test it, to be sure it works well. But it seems that no information is getting to injectors or coils when I try to start. The ECU (or the lines from the ECU) are again the suspect.
