1200 Bike Won't Crank

Just remembered I had an issue with my bike starting even though I was in neutral with the side stand up I still had to pull the clutch in to start the bike. I think it was the gear position indicator in the end

 

Pull the clutch in, brilliant! I mean it.

There’s going to be a simple solution to this, which will seem obvious once you’ve tracked the darn thing down. Something has seized through lack of use, which is not a criticism by the way.

Just because the contacts on the solenoid look good doesn’t mean it’s good on the inside. I’m not clear with all your process of elimination but I’d have thought it I’d most likely to be the solenoid or relay.

Unless you have an alarm of course, or even the immobiliser. I don’t believe you’ll want to be going there.

 

I had something similar on my 900SS so bypassed the solenoid connections completely just to test. I didn't turn on the ignition use use the starter button, just touched the + from the battery directly to the + lead to the starter motor and if it turns at all then you can work backwards knowing at least the motor is probably not the problem. Careful with sparks of course, there are lots of amps involved

 

Like Sam1199, I reckon it's something simple like the side stand switch or kill switch.

You mentioned playing around with the stand, and I see you have it in neutral. Have you definitely not got it in gear despite the neutral lamp ? Does the back wheel spin freely by hand on the centre stand without turning the engine over ?

Have you disconnected the stand switch and joined the feed and return to test for a defective side stand switch ?

Can you get a voltmeter or test lamp on a bit of wire and check that when the starter relay is operated when you hit the start button then there's definitely 12v+ on the switched live output from the relay to the starter ?

Have you checked all your fuses ?

Must be something simple.

Good luck pal.

 

Like I mentioned when my neutral sensor failed I had to pull the clutch in to start the bike until I got it replaced

 

I agree with the rest of the guys here, it’s probs something simple.
The ideas above are all good ones and were well worth your time checking.
There is a sequence of events that must happen for ignition to be permitted by the ecu such as neutral selected, side stand up, clutch pulled in and so on. (I don’t think clutch is required on your bike if it’s in neutral but I can’t be sure, it’s been a while)
The ecu gets these signals from pretty simple switches which occasionally fail. You’ve already mentioned you’ve done work with the side stand so personally I’d bypass that to rule it out whether it looks good/is new or not. Disconnect the switch plug on the bike side, connect both terminals with a piece of wire, that should do it.
Also, check the clutch switch on the underside of the clutch master cylinder. It’s a little blade switch that is pressed by a long stud on the clutch lever when it’s pulled in. Follow the two cables back down the chassis and disconnect it to remove it from the system. (Honestly I can’t remember if this needs bypassed in the same way as the side stand, I think just disconnecting it might do)
Also trace the rhs switchgear down the cable route to the connectors and see if everything looks ok, no cable breaks or critters have been in and eaten a cable or anything.
I can’t think of much more to try, I’ll keep thinking. Nelly might be along, he’s good with this sh1t.
If all else fails, might be worth biting the bullet and getting it connected to some software to get it checked, your local dealer will be able to tell you if everything on the system is operational. Shouldn’t be too expensive if you just get a diagnosis and fix it yourself. Phone them and ask the question if they’re friendly enough.
Best of luck, keep us posted.

 

Following on from my suggestions at post 24, you should be able to check that the starter is or is not receiving 12v at its positive post by pulling back the rubber cap and joining a test lamp or voltmeter to it and the other probe to earth/frame.

When you hit the starter button, do you see any voltage at the actual starter motor ?

If not, then you'll need to work backwards from the starter via the starter relay and the low current side of the starter relay to ensure it's getting the signal from the ECU.

Bypassing every single 'start permit' switch (clutch micro switch, engine on/off button, side stand micro switch etc) should allow you to at least crank the starter ASSUMING the immobiliser key inductance thingy around the key lock is working which is difficult to check. Worth taking things apart, checking the contacts and drying it out if it's wet.

Have you tried your spare key ?

Maybe if you bypass all the micro switches which permit a start and try a separate battery and a set of jump leads direct to the live feed wire to the starter, and frame, with the ignition on you should at least get the starter to operate.

 

Fab news. Well done.