One was a bit of a tight fit and I replaced the rings but it was the same. Thanks will check. Cheers Gaz
@gaz92 I recently posted a « how to » with pics on this. Long story short: you need a tool to measure. https://www.ducatiforum.co.uk/threads/valve-clearance-measurements.101461/page-2#post-2210743 Hope this helps.
Yes Jimmy it's the on I got from Essex. I am slowly getting there. I've had a few bits to replace I was not happy with. On with the heads at the minute. I understand about the tool and having a shoulder and offset. My point is if the micrometer is the same diameter as the shoulder on the tool I would have thought you can measure shim thickness straight off the micrometer. If anyone has the tool could they possibly tell me what 2 diameters are. Cheers Gaz
@gaz92 The closing shims measuring tool is designed to replicate the valve stem, with the groove acting as the half rings. That’s why you need a different measuring tool to work on 7mm valves and 8mm valves engines. I just went and measured my micrometer and it’s 6.5mm in diameter, which is perfect to measure 7 or 8mm openers (no incidence on closers).
Yes knew there was 2 different tools, I just thought my micrometer who's diameter I mentioned earlier, and is bigger than the hole might be the right diameter not to hit the radius in the corner of the shim. I would be interested to see what the tool diameter are thought. Thanks for comments. Cheers Gaz
Well, as I said, the measuring tools replicate the valve stems. So 7mm and 8mm diameter, depending on the engine you are working on (D2, D4, etc.). Have you read LT Snyder’s (DesmoTimes) books on D2/D3 and D4 maintenance? The chapter on the valve train adjustment is very detailed and explains it all.
Hi Guillaume, thanks for responce. I going to shown my ignorance and ask what does D2, D3 & D4 refer to, I presume it's 2, 3 & 4 Valve but have not see it called "D" before. I have not got or read the book, but have watched a number of videos by Desmowerx and Brad, possible these are not a substitute for the book regarding the adjustment method. Funds are limited for the renovation and I do bits on the bike as and when. I was just trying to use what I had to make this as affordable as possible (and I like a challenge), (and I am a tight Yorkshireman). Regarding the measurement my thought process was this. If the tool is too small it will go through the hole, if it is too large it will chatch on the radius in the corner of the shim. I am presuming after the radius ends the surface is flat until it gets to the hole because I have not see a radius as big as the one in the shim on any of the tools (I may be wrong). On the tools I have seen the Desmotimes 7mm shows a small rad on the end and on others there seems to be a small step down to a smaller diameter which fits in the hole with no radius. I thought if I could replicate the tool, big enough not to go throught the hole and small enough not to catch the radius that would be good enough. Possibley there is no flat section in the shim and the radius starts at the edge of the hole and the tool has a radius that follows the exact profile of the shim. Thanks for all input, I will press on. I tried to register on the Desmotimes web site but it seem to be having trouble taking my details. Cheers Gaz
So I think as Guillaume said be mind full the collets may not be seated correctly, I am sure this was the case at some point during the proceedings. Anyway, after replacing a shim on the Horz head the cam now fully turns. On the Vert the problem was the cams where the wrong way round. Someone had marked in black pen on the ends and that's what I was going on. While looking at a cam on the table I noticed the cast markings and realised the the problem. Iam sure you know but will say in anyway A aspirazione Inlet, S scarico Exhast. Not sure way it did not depress the valves, answers on a post card. So need to measure some clearance now. Cheers Gaz.
The most important thing when putting these cams back is to make sure the oil ports are facing each others (cam to head).
