The white bits are blanking pegs. They just pull out. Is there one in M26? That is the correct hole that you are indicating. I suspect that they have switched to the silicone rubber insert instead of the bogey gel. Makes the job easier. On the front of the connector is a yellow tab. If you prise under it with a flat blade it will come out of the connector like a drawer. This is the pin retainer. DON'T pull it out of the connector. With it in the out position see if you can push a piece of wire or a needle up from the base through M26 so it appears topside. This should help confirm we can do the opposite and push a new wire/connector through the sealer and into position.
It doesn't show on the 1098 wiring diagram A bit of wire cutting is needed. You need to run the wire going into B1 to the ECU connector side of M26. The blue wire going to M26 should be left unconnected.
Good shift today got the old engine out and a good clean around the frame what a mess in the bits you can never get into clean . New engine ready to go in tomorrow when my mate comes to give me a lift whats the best way to fit???????????????? does the swing arm have to come off????????? as the rear mounting goes through the swingarm roller bearing mounts these were bone dry aswell so hopefully all going well be lacing all the electrics up tomorrow im still having fun but only just
Nice one, should just be the reverse of dropping the old one I wouldn't take the swingarm off, the motor should just slot in
Everything is on hold at the moment had another disaster 8yr old son breaks ankle at school yesterday so im daddy daycare for a few days :Arghh::Arghh::Arghh::Arghh::Arghh::Arghh:
Just finally back on track. got the engine in and pretty mutch laced up ended up taking the swingarm off mutch easier and was able to grease all the dry roller bearings waiting on exhaust headers coming this week and a few bits and bobs hopefully have it running by this weekend :Banghead:
Ok couple good shifts today and yesterday got the long awaited exhaust gaskets this morning yahoo so everything laced up and and looking good Did the ecu mod and was getting a immo code but was just the sensor on the ignition barrel lying to far down the barrel sorted no codes phew happy days So engines turning over just fine add some petrol and she is away sweet as a nut sounds lovely just purring away lol im one happy man today now the proud owner of a 1198s or whatever you want to call it lol Just have to see about changing all the details over on log book etc insurance anyone done this before ??????? Going to have a cheeky test ride later Just like to add a big thanks to all the guys who helped me out along the way ,@chrisw @Nelson and others cheers guys
Just wanted to say, YAY! priceless information here. I have been faced with the same problem as this. 1198 engine, 1098 loom and ecu. Engine did fire using 1098 map and 1098 ecu, but would only idle very roughly and died after a second or 2. So remapped using guzzidiag, using a tool from lonelec in the UK, put an 1198 map on - dead straight forward, but then she wouldn't start. So, followed these instructions but removed the blue wire from the lambda port, by sliding out the yellow tray, and then used a pair of pliers to twist to pull the pin out of the ecu block, then cut this and added a foot or so of extra wire and pushed it back into m26 using the pliers and then slid the tray back in to lock the pin in its new home. Put everything back together and she fires like an angry tiger! still gives the lambda error, but I can map the ecu again. Stoked with this outcome, and thanks to this forum for sharing this invaluable information. Probably $1 fix here, a tiny bit of wire and 2 blobs of solder, and enough tape to tape the new wire to the outside of the harness.
