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1100s Rear Plate Hanger...

Discussion in 'Hypermotard' started by t965m, Nov 3, 2016.

  1. The numberplate was at the end of the arm with the two bolts on it. I think there was a metal bracket onto which the arm fitted.

    Getting a replacement arm and bracket is the challenge. As it's now obsolete I guess a replacement will be needed - Ducati might be able to do something.

    It looks like the subframe needs to be removed so the rust can be sorted. I want to keep the bike on the road but want to come up with some kind of tray or cover to protect the back end from all the road shit. I ride in all weathers and all year so it get a hammering. 60+ k so far. I'd like to keep it going for another 60
     
    #21 t965m, Nov 6, 2016
    Last edited: Nov 6, 2016
  2. I did create a mudguard for exactly that. . . Fits on the stock system though. Might try to adjust that one as well. . . .
     
  3. If you do something like that I'd like to see it, please. I might be able to do something similar - struggling to come up with something workable.

    Thanks.
     
    #23 t965m, Nov 6, 2016
    Last edited: Nov 6, 2016
  4. The only pic I've got to hand is the cardboard mockup. . . . But that's it in stainless. . .
    IMG_20140727_195510.jpg
     
  5. I had to get 10 made so I stuck the remainder on ebay. Some of the lads on here had them but I mostly had people telling me how they made their own out of cut up milk cartons. But tbh with that mentality I could make my side panels out of bread bags and sticky tape. . ! The point was it was a bespoke made bit of kit in stainless so therefore good quality. !
     
  6. Looks good - cheeky question, does it work?
     
  7. Yeah. Worked brilliantly. As you know when you get caught in the wet it all goes up under the seat... Not with that...

    Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk
     
  8. Interesting. Something like that would be spot on for the single can as that really leaves the underneath exposed. I don't want to have the same issue again.
     
  9. Well... The last time I did this everyone was keen as mustard so I put the effort in (quite a lot of trips to the fabricator) quite a few testers. Had to pay the fabricators time putting it into cad format... I think I had to stump up 300 odd in the end and when I actually got them virtually no one wanted them... They took some time to sell on ebay...

    Having said that half the design is already there plus I might be able to get someone in work to help me... I'll contact the fabricator tomorrow and see how he's stacked for work...

    Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk
     
  10. Going back to your sub frame.... Just take it off and get it coated... Takes about an hour to remove...

    Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk
     
  11. Hi @comfysofa like the sound of the mudguard - how much were they each in the end, retail? Why did u use stainless and not alu?
    Also why are frame sliders / crash mushrooms so expensive? £66 for a bit of threaded bar and 2 plastic knobs seems excessive to me!
     
  12. I literally divided the cost of them up including the time i had to pay for the mock ups which ended up about 45 quid from recollection....found a shot of the fitted stainless unit...i think also it wasnt a particularly blingy bit of equipment (ie it was functional and served a purpose) so people didnt want them....ive still got some left of those...one of the lads on here actually bought one from me last month and he thought it was really good....he had my last tail tidy also.
    20141011_102514.jpg
     
  13. The nice thing about designing your own stuff was that i got to make the decisions on where and how they fitted...i was quite chuffed with the tail tidy as there were none around (and i mean none) that tucked the plate right up to the pipes...most were at least an inch maybe 2 inches down which defeated the object of why you have them in the first place....heres my evo with my tail tidy on....
    20131125_132821.jpg
     
  14. Oh - aluminium corrodes, eventually - also the fabricator didnt want to use aluminium just incase something got flicked up from the wheel that was heavy....he was trying to allow for stuff that he couldnt allow for. I must confess i would have rather used thinner stainless - these were 3mm but, it was better to be on the safer side. No matter what the stainless got covered in, it always cleaned up nicely. Goes back to cost again...aly is cheap, i wasnt trying to do it on the cheap but fall on the side of quality and durability.

    The other thing is vibration. I had a test tail tidy made from aly and within a week it snapped due to the hyper being a big twin....
     
    #34 comfysofa, Nov 7, 2016
    Last edited: Nov 7, 2016
  15. All seems reasonable @comfysofa cost and reasons for stainless. Stainless will rust too eventually and it can be a bugger to drill thru?! But is more durable than ally true. I made tail tidy for the ktm from ally and it sheared too!
     
  16. Well, with regards to stainless yes, it can rust but it depends on the quality - the material i used was a 316 stainless not a 304 which is ok but 316 can withstand sea water...again, a question of quality. Ive spoken to the fabricator this morning and he's finishing early today so ill miss him, apparently heavy rain here tomorrow so i dont think ill get in to see him either - im working away one day this week so thats out and they finish early friday....im hoping to get into see im thursday or friday afternoon - ill take the hyper is so he can take some measurements so hopefully should have something next week...
     
  17. I'm not really sure what I want but have an idea. Basically something that seals the arse end so as to prevent water and salt be thrown up and getting under the seat amongst the electrics and battery.

    I was thinking flexible plastic but not sure that's workable. The underneath seems much more exposed on the single can setup.
     
  18. Yeah i find the same - big gap for all the crap to get thru! cleaned and ACF'd it all at wkend!
     
  19. Well, my plan is to adjust the mudguard that i already have to bolt to the two holes (where your pipe connects to) on the one side and then the other, hang the number plate from.
     
  20. IMG_1513.JPG IMG_1513.JPG IMG_1504.JPG

    IMG_1513.JPG IMG_1504.JPG IMG_1468.JPG

    Some hopefully better pics of my underside. Last one shows the gap to left of exhaust hanger is where all the crud gets in. I have a nice black smoked perspex thingy/plate (muddy) which goes around the tail hanger - i will take off the OEM hanger to see what is there. Mudguard wise its a smaller bit i need to cover the gap forward of exhaust hanger. Will get there eventually!
     
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