Gents, For the first restart and initial road tests of this bike, I intend to use new oil and flush it after only 50 miles or so, to « rinse » the engine before using the expensive nice Castrol Classic 10w50. What « unexpensive » type of oil would you recommend to do this without taking any risks?
My answer to this was going to be why do you think it needs flushing? You have seen the engine running and I'm going to assume you have drained the oil that was in it at that time. So what would another fill, run & drain succeed in doing? Admittedly I've only skimmed over that thread but I'm not quite sure which one of those answers you have found.
Diesel 15w40 is what I would use, based on that thread. I feel like flushing as a precautionary measure, to lubricate quickly (w40) and clean/rinse (detergent for diesel). It would only be for first start and carb tuning. No riding, no clutch, no gears.
Strangely enough after rebuilding the Darmah engine Tony Brancato recommended using something called 'Castrol Product 351' which I believe was an oil for diesel engines and was a straight 40. It has since being discontinued.
Sounds like I have a plan then! Castrol Classic (high zinc) 10w50 is what I intend to use after initial start.
Ooo dear... this could be the start of an oil discussion... do we really want to go there I think any top quality modern multigrade will be fine, and a 10w50 is better for these old engines. I not bothered about using a semi-synth either and have gone for a Motul 5100 Regen(erated) oil.
Getting closer to D-Day… I am now trying to get smart on PHF32 tune up. I am trying to wrap my mind around synchro using cable/throttle stops adjusting. Also, as I plan to ride this bike on long haul trip as well, I ordered a pair of K&N cone filters. That’ll keep the dust out of the carbs, even though I do not fancy the HD look very much…
Before now I have checked the slides lift and fall at the same time without the engine running purely by listening to them dropping on the stop screws. So set the stop screws the same, adjust the dual action cable to get them moving the same whilst leaving enough free turns in the carb top adjusters to be able to do the final cable syncing after you've faffed around with the mixture/throttle screws. Feel free to completely disregard the above because I'm not entirely sure how those dual action cables are adjusted... I am wondering if, at the very least, the mixture screws will need changing after fitment of the K&Ns. And possibly the needle position/main/idle jet.
Apologies if you know this already but here is my step by step guide I use for carb setting. As you can see it has been used a number of times (And for highest revs read highest vacuum)
Try not to have any expectations when you do first go out on him/her. Initially it might well feel really horrid, heavy, unwieldy, slow to rev and steer. But that'll just be it's old world charm, ho hum , however once you get into it's vibe and readjust your riding approach you'll have a blast.
I have already experienced something similar with my 1989 900 Supersport. Very stiff… An era away from the following generation (91 onwards). I adapted and now, I think it’s an absolute blast to ride. The Weber carb is an absolute joy too.
Some additional information on Castrol Product 351 for those who may be interested. "Castrol Product 351, which is a straight 40 grade. It is a development of CRI 40 which was used by Ford in the Works Escorts for quite a few years." Castrol Classic Oils confirmed that Castrol Product 351 has not been available for some time. They suggested that "The nearest alternative is Castrol Classic XXL40." The link below provides further information on the alternative: https://www.classicoils.co.uk/xxl40 .
Brook Henry’s advice on oils , Motul have a suitable oil which is widely available https://www.veetwo.com/Info/what-engine-oil-do-we-use-and-recommend-for-ducati-bevel-engines-you-ask
