A spring dowel pin https://itafasteners.com/products-pins-spring-dowel.php Countersunk bolt: Serrated countersunk lock washers:
Don't forget the drive isn't taken by the screws, rather from the friction between the hub and the wheel. That's why you need to get a good clamping force from the screws. The dowel pins are a bit of a placebo, but as I've said mine has been OK.
@Andy Bee @ducv2 All understood, perfect. I was thinking Helicoil too, when looking at this closely. The pickup wires kit apparently works without messing with the pickups themselves. https://store.bevelheaven.com/Electrical-Battery-Ignition/BOSCH-Pickup-Wire-Kit-SS-Darmah-MHR-etc/ Now I need to find out about the pick up themselves and see if they would need replacing or not. Thanks much for the starter explanations. Given your advice, I may not replace that cable and only upgrade the battery to solenoid and ground cables. Speaking of which, the solenoid looks quite original, Lucas made in England. Are these prone to fail? Meaning is it a good idea to replace it preemptively or are they long lasting type design? It looks in good external shape, but my experience with my 1969 Mustang is that they need replacing everything 10 years or so…
Old Joseph Lucas - aka the Prince of Darkness. The solenoid on my (50Km) Darmah is the original one and all I did for it's refurb was remove all the nuts, clean all the green off & spray with some appropriate fluid. There's nothing much to go wrong with them really & it's still going strong As mentioned before a bouncing starter button contact can cause this relay to clack in & out though.
Thanks! I know about TPCS. We do have a reputable equivalent here in France called Techno Finish, near Reims. I will shoot them an email. https://www.technofinish.fr/
I thought you guys would have named it “Georges”, being the Prince of darkness… Ok, I love the idea of keeping it. Contacts were not even green yet, just shiny copper, as you can see. I will definitely open and take a look at the stater button system.
For info - the Lucas brand (and Girling & Hepolite) was bought by a company called Wassal a long time ago to produce parts for (mainly) Classic British bikes, so beware that modern Lucas parts aren't exactly 'genuine'. Not necessarily anything inherently wrong with the new parts, but I'd be trying to clean up & refurbish existing original parts before looking at new... This info is a result of my recent mid-70s Triumph build where I bought Lucas parts before I knew their origin.
Ok, I understand the need for clean flat mating surfaces between the rim hub and the cush drive housing. These are now clean, but the surface is somewhat altered by friction, time, aluminum corrosion may be? Do I need to have these machined back to perfectly flat?
Interesting. In my place, yes I would have them skimmed a touch and have the holes sorted at the same time. Other people may have different views on it. Of course machining those faces would alter the sprocket alignment. These old bikes keep you happy for hours
I'll let others confirm but I suspect if the cush drive sits on the hub, without being bolted down, flat and with no wobble then I suspect you would be fine.
Exactly my thought. Machining would induce some sort of misalignment of the rear sprocket. That shim would have to be like 3 tenths of a millimeter thick… It does not wobble when resting on the hub. Thinking about doing without the machining now. One final question before I set myself up to tackling this new project : spring dowel pins. What diameter would you use? I am thinking 5 or 6 mm.
As you can see their placement is quite tricky as there isn't a great deal of space between the cush drive webs and the cush drive bolt holes. So small enough to not compromise the integrity of the bolt holes or the edges of the hub. Would I be correct in thinking a split spring pin is slightly larger than the hole drilled for it so it can be gently tapped in snug?
Thats nothing, the float shims used on the rockers & bevel gears go down to 0.1 mm... the old joke goes that Ducati were originally a shim manufacturer who had the great idea to build an engine that required loads of shims
Absolutely. Say I used a 6mm split dowel pin, I would drill a 5mm hole for that. This is pretty much what I have in mind (showing a 5mm drill).
Well, at this point, with the wiring harness and ignition off, there’s pretty much just the engine (and the swingarm) left on the frame. I will now be able to start the great clean up/refurb.
