What are they? Do they fit a 92 model? Can you answer the second question first. Sorry for the profanity, but they look shit hot. Cheers Gaz
Hey Gaz, I totally agree, shit hot they are. I went for a little test ride yesterday evening and I love the deeper roar! I couldn’t tell you by experience if those will fit a 92 Supersport or not, as I have never owned one. However, 1989-1990 Supersport OEM silencers are referenced #57410041C and # 57310041C on the parts catalog. Model year 1992 OEM cans references seem very close (#57410042C / #57310042C). Additionally, 1989-1990 Supersports and 851 silencers are interchangeable. What about 1992 SS? Now, it might seem a bit ridiculous, but I have no clue what brand these are. No markings other than some alpha-numerical references on the pipes and the hangers. All I know is that they look very similar to a pair of Contis the seller had and that I missed by a couple hours. He offered these instead, telling me they were identical, save the riveted « Conti » hangers. I actually prefer these as the hangers are held by screws. Something I did not mention in my previous post is that they weigh probably one kilo less a piece than the OEM ones, and are shorter.
Hello. I had some similar OEM silencers in the late 90's and they were made by "Remus" for Ducati. However, while they looked similar, they were for a different model. By the way, I think you're doing a great job with this project. Good luck with it. Tom.
I don't know why I asked I probably can't afford a set at the minute, it was just I had never seen that set before, ends and detailing looked different. I have a set of originals for mine which were not in very good condition and have chopped them up. I have cut the internals out and plan to do a straight through (maybe winter project) and seen how that goes. Did you have to do anything with air filter or jetting? Cheers Gaz
I was actually anticipating some difference in carburation, but for this first test, everything went really fine through the entire rpm range, from low throttle to WOT, so I don’t think I will have to change anything.
I went for another ride yesterday, as I am still tinkering with the clutch. On the new silencers/carburation front, I can now say with confidence that I won’t need to change anything. I rode hard and sometimes pretty (too) fast, and the motor felt strong, like new. Probably because it is almost new, actually, with 13.000 km and newly adjusted valves. The ride was an absolute blast! That also probably has to do with a clutch now properly set. I basically got her a brand new set of discs (both friction and others - can’t remember how the nine friction discs are called in English, sorry…). The shop manual says 32mm total stack height. That was ok, but the bike wanted to slightly creep forward in first at stop lights with lever pulled in, gear changes were a bit too rough for my liking and it was 100% impossible to find neutral when stopped. It only worked when coasting to a stop. I decreased the height to 29mm by removing 1 friction plate at the bottom. With this I had perfect neutral even when stopped, very smooth gear changes and bike staying still with clutch lever pulled. However, it was now slipping at WOT. Changed two 1.5mm discs for the thicker 2mm ones in order to get back to 30mm. Et voilà: I found the sweet spot where everything works perfectly. Very happy about this. Lastly, on the « cosmetic » side of things, I was very lucky to source 4 OEM plastic tabs (connecting the light to the bike) to refurbish my OEM turning indicators. These are very difficult to come by, today, so I am really happy about this too. And for one who’s into 80’s bikes, these are damn good looking once refurbed and mounted. God I love this bike!!
Back to the twin sister. I got the carby back after a nice ultrasound bath and a complete refurb. Came back really nice and shiny. On to putting it all back together, start up and fine tune it. BEFORE: NOW:
Tuning is done. Synchro was a walk in the park, as I found the two barrels already synched with both air bypass screws totally closed. (Pic taken before engine start). Adjusting mixture/CO took a bit more work as using the same baseline settings for the idle mixture adjustment screws than those I used for the keeper bike carb (two turns out from closed), it started super lean with an AFR >18 That was hot with small detonations in the carb and a relatively unsteady idle, as soon as I would try opening the throttle. Opening the idle mixture adjustment screws less than one turn more allowed me to set a nice 12,6 (5%CO) on the horizontal cyl. and 12.2 (6%CO) on the vertical (a tad richer as it gets less cool air at the rear), controlling the idle by gradually unscrewing the idle speed screw. With that done, the engine then sounded correctly tuned and with the air box back on and fuel tank secured I decided to shot straight for a first test ride around the block. The short / tee-shirt / flip flops / no helmet type ride, you know… That went perfectly well with good brakes, good clutch and a bike that starts, idles and pulls really, really nicely. I am now waiting for a set of turning indicators repros I ordered last month in Italy and it will be ready for a longer day ride, my ultimate test before selling.
Great work .... You have definitely mastered the dark arts of engine tuning ! I spotted the Carbtune vac gauge , but I haven't seen that type of gas analyzer before .... what is it ? ( the last pic in your post above ) When the meters and gauges are finished with , I still rely on my ears and a test ride to be fully convinced ....
It is a bit of risk especially considering some of the much sought after items like the front fork disassembly mounting 'tool' & the bespoke bevel engine cradle Plus some of those pieces of wood have been passed down through the generations and came from my fathers garage. Ha! what oil soaked wood next to a jerry can? phah! no bother... Tis empty I can assure you...
Guillaume69 I saw your air/fuel mixture probe in a previous post and would be interested in some details about the set up. I am presuming its a wide band sensor what make, model, number of wires. What's the gauge and what connects to it from the sensor and I suppose more importantly the adaptor. I thought the sensors were M18 x 1.5 and Ducasti exhaust 1/8 BSP. Did you buy or make the adaptor? Cheers Gaz
@oldtech @gaz92 The probe is a wideband MTX-L Plus lambda sensor from Innovate. You connect it to a 12v battery with two wires. There are a couple additional wires that you would use to permanently set the gauge in a vehicle. I don’t use them for my external motorcycle applications. The adaptor is indeed a M18x1.5 -> Gaz 1/8. Looked everywhere but never found one so we had some made locally (see plan attached). For a batch of 5, it cost 52€ a piece, if my memory serves well.
Test ride this morning. A conservative 50 km loop around the house, just in case. Very happy with how the bike feels: engine pulling strong with carb perfectly doing the job, buttery gear shifting, sounds awesome too… Well until I ran out of gas 20km away from home. You know how that happens… Thank God my wife is always looking out for her significant other, even on Sunday mornings.
Thanks for that info . I still have a fairly ancient Gunson CO tester ....... a bit like the days of valves ( tubes ) in old electronics ..... " steam radio " .... There's no doubt that sampling the gas at the headers is the most accurate way to go , by far . But the devil is in the details , and it's about how the Gunson unit "pumps" the exhaust gas in for testing . It uses a diaphragm that vibrates back and forth and is powered only by the pressure pulses from the exhaust. That's how it was designed to work , by having the sample tube shoved into the end of the exhaust pipe , and NOT connected to the headers ( where the gas flow is at a right-angle ) . PS - the readings from this type of gas tester will wander all over the place if they are powered from the vehicle's own battery .
