Your bolts look like M8 to me............same as mine. I replaced mine with stainless........filed off the grade letters on the head first; also used half width locknuts. If you extend a WD40 squirt tube and go in through the nearest mudguard mounting points (or the brake caliper stop bolt thingy) you should be able to get a blast onto the adjuster threads inside. In fact, while you have the other ends standing in those cans, you could pour quite a bit of anything useful inside and it will settle around the bolt threads.
Bang on Al, did exactly that to the ones on my SL swing arm. It took weeks to get them out ! Heads had sheared off the bolts early on in the process but persisted with WD40 and a pair of mole grips and they eventually came out [emoji1303][emoji41]
I use anything from Plus Gas, heating oil (which doesn't evaporate too quickly) or white spirit even..........but fortunately I have CLP-Break Free which can be got from any good gun shop or Amazon / Ebay.
Update on the chain adjuster bolts. After a 24hr soak in petrol, I did get some movement: Shortly after this, the bolt sheared off. I then tried to use two locking nuts to turn the remaining stud - no joy, the nuts just turned on the stud. I then took the whole shooting match to the garage, and got the nuts welded on. Turning the nuts either broke the weld, or the stud. Also the mechanic expressed the opinion that, since the heat from the weld and subsequent use of freeze spray had not shifted them, they were not coming out! I then took the swing arm to an engineering firm with lathes etc. They will drill out remains and tap to M8 for me.
yes very unlucky, good effort, nils desperandum and all that, (looking back at your early pictures and the amount of corrosion you've had to contend with you've done a mans job sir, onwards and upwards)
The new bolts will need a liberal coating of copper grease. I agree the ally swingarm adjusters on the carbed SS are quite a good idea, but actually not that good in practice.......after all two M8 bolts sticking out 50mm aren't going to stop the axle moving in the event the axle isn't tight enough......... ....however, the carbed SS steel swingarm adjusters are even worse IMO.........when the axle is tightened, it has the effect of bending the adjuster plates and if the adjuster blocks get stuck on the axle or in the swingarm there will be some serious effort involved to get the rear wheel out. The best chain adjuster on any of my bikes was the one on the ZZR1100.......... it was a form of cam which meant that depending on whether the axle was at the top of the cam or below it, the ride height had some minor adjustment too.
if the aim was anything other than restoration of an 'as original' 1991 bike. i would be tempted by this: http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=172129889746&alt=web
well today I bought a new set of clocks, just to replace the corroded trip reset cable. I was lucky that there were a set of faded ones, with a broken surround. Even better they were only 20 miles away. I had to drill out the tiny lock screw, I replaced this with a cotter pin. After getting this done, I resprayed the black surrounds. I also got the exhaust back from shot-blasting. Have sprayed with silver VHT paint. I took the opportunity to spray lots of little clips etc with the same paint. I think we have nearly finished with painting now!
The plan was for maiden voyage on 10th April. Not going to happen. Will be running as soon as possible.
How much did you pay for the clocks etc? I have a complete dash with all clocks etc in really good condition, 5000 miles.
