for blanking plates use ply wood cut to shape (easy to work with) and silicone in place I have used soft foam tennis balls lightly coated in oil to bung up inlet and outlet ports on engines when stood but not for pressure washing don't forget the crankcase breather silicone a long bolt into it maybe easier to pull out
When I pressure washed the engine on my 400, I left the intake manifolds on and put bags on them and cable tied in place, and for the exhaust I left the front section of pipe on.
Thanks for the comments The wiring loom was a bit daunting, I could have easily pulled it apart, but I wanted to document every twist and turn, every cable tie gauge and position. Finally got it all off This is where I am at now... The breakages continue, one of the the rear mudguard to swing-arm bolts has snapped off, and 3 inlet and outlet port studs/nuts are goosed. A very high percentage of the weight must be in the remaining bits, coz it dosent feel any lighter yet!
Nearly ready for the engine and frame to be parted... I would just prefer to get the exhaust off first. Any tips on removing the bolts/studs? Here is one I have butchered with no success This has had: 1) Penetrating oil (AFC-90 and WD-40) 2) Heat 3) Chisel contemplating an angle grinder next!
Grind a cold chisel to a sharp narrow angle point and try cutting/splitting the nut from the end of the stud down to the flange..........it might even loosen it as you go. I have one of those nut splitters but there isn't enough room to get the loop round the nut.
Would a dremel get in there to make a start on cutting. Do like these bikes would like it in yellow or a yellow 748.
Grind it flat till your just about to hit the thread ,then try the chisel again, the grind will put some heat in it and give you something to hit, good luck.
Just completed an IE model 1999. Highly recommend Hycote engine spray paint. Bought from a road and rally type shop for cars. It actually hardens off enough when engine cold so takes away worry of damaging the paint putting engine back in frame. Fully hardens when engine runs hot. For engine side casings RS Motorcycle spray paint. All details on their web site. Get back to bare metal and use the primer, paint and lacquer they recommend and it is good for high temperatures. Also used this combination for wheels. Finished bike is on the for sale forum.
OK, I've taken a tip from adecarcer - I built a couple of 'sawhorses' and am lifting the frame off the ground. This way I can remove wheels, forks, and swingarm.
Update... not much done, rear wheel and swing-arm off. Mine does not have circlips - the Haynes manual suggests they are retrofitted. Broke a bolt on the forks holding the front axle. Now starting to think about supplies of bits and the right people to do the more technical bits. new chain - tips? also wondering what the paint code is for the 'ducati white'
If you don't have circlips (or circlip grooves) you may have to get a longer pivot rod. I fitted my 750 with an ally swingarm from a 900 and although the 750 had a steel swingarm with a pivot rod + circlips, the grooves are now hidden in the swingarm clampy bits. But it hasn't moved in 2500 miles.........
Wrt the chain, I fitted an AFAM and new sprockets. I kept the 15 at the front and went up 2 at the rear. It's better than stock and not quite as severe as dropping 1 on the front which seems to be the most popular mod.
