If you warm the ends of the pipe by sticking them some hot water they will push on much more easily; however because it gets bloody hot under the tank, I would invest in some suitable pipe clips if I were you. PS.....that pipe may not be suitable for petrol...........I reckon that will go hard PDQ or it will break down like it did on my strimmers and turn into a load of gungy, slimy and powdery crap which blocked up the carbs......sort of a powdery jelly. Also, I would not have an inline filter on the return flow pipe........if it starts to become blocked you will end up with some nasty flooding problems as pressure will build up at the carbs........the OEM pump is only about 3.5 psi, but if you block the return, it doesn't take much for the needle valves in the float bowls to be overcome. The route of the pipes is more or less spot on OEM........the reason why your pipes were kinking is because the proper petrol pipe is much thicker walled. Another little tip --- if you want one, that is.........is to invest in an electrically operated (but with manual overide) inline valve which cuts off the petrol supply when the ignition is switched off.......you can splice it into the pump wiring harness (piggy back connectors or similar)........It saves having to lift the tank and turn the petcock off and it will prevent the potential siphon action if you have a brimmed tank. This can happen if the bike is on a paddock stand, or if it's a very hot day.......once the float bowls start to overflow. Something like this at the low cost end........but there are better ones available. Petrol diesel shut off solenoid valve 12V LPG conversion,liquid,air,anti theft | eBay
So easy to do this yourself. Just stick the threaded end in a drill chuck and spin the bolt-head up on some sandpaper. If you want to get a mirror finish, you can go up through the grades of sand and emery paper and finish with metal polish on a cloth - or stop at any point in the process that takes your fancy
I warmed the pipe in the oven - used silicone spray - if I were doing more, would look at the correct tools for the job. I'm not that strong and I have office workers hands, so need all the help I can get! There are two types of this tubing the Ester based and the Ether based - I have a section soaking in petrol as we speak - hoping my sort is the right sort! I did wonder - I was thinking, it is unlikely to be blocked as it will have already come through a filter, so I put it in. I was also a little unsure what the flow was - total noob here - thanks for the advice! Am interested in this setup - I'm not keen on the extra wiring as I'm trying to keep it as stock as possible - but it sounds like a good idea, thanks
I have a data sheet that claims: "Product should be suitable for prolonged or repeated contact with these substances, under the conditions specified" These substances being a list of which one is "Petroleum" Isopropyl ether, acetic acid, and Kerosene are no no's though. "Ether-type polyurethane tubing is widely used for: High-purity applications Instrumentation Distilled, deionized, demineralized or reverse osmosis-treated water Handling petroleum-based products"
Still go rusty after a while though.....:wink: I didn't use button heads on the sidestand bracket......used ordinary stainless socket heads and wired them.
Quite, but I couldn't see how your post related to Wolfram's bolt post - unless you were saying turn the bolt head from socket cap to domed head.........so, I thought you had seen the post about the rusty oil line bolts in the other thread.
I was referring to the fact that he had got Stig fasteners to turn the stainless button bolt heads for him, presumably on a lathe, and wished to point out that it's perfectly possible to do it yourself in a drill chuck, using sandpaper.
Took Al's advice and removed the inline filter from the return fuel line... Changed the in-tank fuel filter. Difficult to get the pump back in it's clips, needed a second person to apply downward force. Now I'm trying to get the lid housing back on - not easy! any tips?
If you have a larger outside filter, you can do away with the in-tank one (leave the bag filter though) - you remove the filter and add a piece of hose in place - use hose clips as well. This is the normal modification that gets done.
do you have to build some sort of compression tool to get the tank rim back in place? to frightened of my paint job to hit it any harder
try not to force it, walk away, think it through, fit the seal to the alloy ring first, you can hold in place with small locking forceps or the like, I must have done this half a dozen times and each time I swear it's harder not easier.
OK, got the tank lid surround on! Figured out the process... Need to take the black rubber seal off completely. Leave the green one on, and lube it up with some silicon spray or something. Make sure the tank rim is clean and sand off any rust. Lube than as well. Push the lid into the hole. this has to be firmly done - might need a tap with a rubber mallet - but don't bray it. Make sure it is aligned correctly - it is NOT easy to turn once seated! Do up two or three grub screws opposite each other. Now take the black rubber ring (or a new one) and stretch it over the lid, pushing the thin inner section under the lip. It will look like this... Now get a small flat bladed screwdriver and gently push the bottom of the protruding rubber in under the lip, the ring will twist over itself and form a seal. Move round the lid until it is all done.
Progress this weekend included complete disassemble of 'tail', repair non 'captive bolt' in LH rear indicator, full clean of everything, reassemble and bolt to frame. I also managed to get the airbox on - difficult to seat the jubilee clips between airbox and the carbs. Wiring up battery next!
