I forgot to mention screwing the neutral sensor in - make sure you do this before you build the engine into the frame! #noaccess Need a long throw 13mm socket with a large internal hollow ideally.
I used a 100mm long box spanner, with an open end spanner on the outside flats of the box spanner........final tightening with a small ring spanner.
I used a old cheap deep socket which I drilled a hole in and fed the wire through, worked really well.
Does anyone know of a supplier for the aluminium spacer used on the rear passenger peg/exhaust hanger? Someone has lost one of mine and replaced with several steel washers. I want to go back to original. They are 30mm OD, 12mm ID and 7mm thick
I have got 2 x 16mm diameter x 22m long stainless.........currently predrilled 8mm approx.........any good? And some longer ones.
Job list this weekend: Clean the back wheel nicely (got dirty during chain adjustment) Attach exhaust hanger/passenger footrests Attach exhaust cans Attach the rear brake lever Attach the gear lever Finish the wiring (oil sensor and rear brake switch, and battery) Route the HT leads Final cable tie tidying Attach oil filter Fill with oil Fill and bleed brakes Fill and bleed clutch Fill tank with fuel I think that is it - Battery is on charge as I type - may turn it over today and hopefully start it tomorrow. If all goes well I will do a full photo-shoot before the fairings go on - recreating all the original photos. Just over a year to this point.
Thanks Al - i have put some more info and a picture up - it is the aluminium spacer on the one to the right of the picture I'm looking for. It is 30mm OD, 12mm ID and 7mm thick
Well... I have not got very far. I have spent an age getting the Battery connected. I ran a cable from the negative terminal straight to the engine casing - rather than use the frame. I have an earthing point on the frame with a second cable to the negative battery terminal. Sounds easy, but it wasn't. I did manage to turn the key, and petrol pump works, indicators, lights, etc... even Neutral light! woo hoo! first time it has electricity through it in 14 years!
As expected... not without problems. Filled it up with Halfords finest 10W40 and hit the starter... Whiring sound from starter motor, but no sign of the engine turning. Diagnosis? EDIT: I have changed my mind about using 10w40 car oil. at 1000 miles i changed to 15w50 Rock oil, formulated for bikes. I had some gearbox issues and was told by an expert that car oil is not capable of dealing with the shearing forces in the gearbox.
Faulty starter or sprag bearing............ ....and sorry, the ally washer spacers I though I had seem to have gone.......they were probably dead right as well..........they were the ends of a Mini rear suspension trumpets which I cut off to lower it.
I'm hopeful it is the starter - I had it to bits early on (foolishly). Moving on to the other bit of the list - Had a mare of a time getting the exhaust baffle bolts out - but managed it in the end - leaving to soak in Diesel overnight is so effective (and heat and cold). So - all electrics seem to work apart from - 1) the side stand switch affects the big red triangle warning light on the dash, but the starter still works? is that right? 2) the kill switch seems to have little effect - starter whirs whatever position. Need to get a new starter on order and investigate these two issues.
The side stan on mine is like that, the light someti.es comes on if it feels like it. Its the single wire switch
This is what it looks like tonight. For some reason I cant get the seat to fix on - there must be something different about the catch on the black seat lock...
You can move the rear catch bit about, loosen the bolts to the bracket underneath, until you get it to catch properly.
Is it the seat that came with the bike or a replacement? The catch is different between the earlier and later bikes.
on another old thread, i came across this comment I could have disturbed this connector. before i spend on a new starter motor, does anyone know what i could do to fix it?
