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1998 748 Rebuild *pic Heavy

Discussion in 'Builds & Projects' started by Jamiej, Mar 16, 2015.

  1. Definitely looks that part. I feel Black and Silver is a nice combination, but I am biased I would admit.
     
  2. Fantastic looking project, we like Pic heavy threads:Snaphappy:
     
  3. I did start to mask off the areas for spraying but I was having a bit of a nightmare so decided to paint the engine by hand.

    Massively impressed with the results.

    This is what i used.

    This is how it came out like.


    Thoughts?[/QUOTE]

    Hi Jamiej
    You’ve done a great job with the engine refurb, fair play!
    I’m currently undergoing the very same project on my 748; hoping to start prepping for paint very soon. What was the ETECH Engine paint you used like? How much did you use in the end? Did brushing the paint on give an even finish?
    Any advice you can give from your experience would be very much appreciated.
    Thanks
    Rob
     
  4. Rob,
    The e-tech paint was great, and gave a good finish. Not as good as a rattle can, but less waste and much easier.

    I have noticed some paint lift from masking tape so I am going to give it another coat and then cure with a heat gun. I have bought some more e-tech in black to do the parts I cannot spray.

    Didn't end up using much at all. I would imagine a tin will be sufficient.
     
  5. Fantastic news! Thanks for your help, it is greatly appreciated.

    All the best
     
  6. Some more painting today and bolt replacement.

    Bolts are from Stig Fasteners (bought via ebay in the end as slightly cheaper)
    [​IMG]

    All the covers now back in place.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    My painting rig!

    [​IMG]

    Found these amongst the parts, looks like my dad has many of the fasteners freshly plated
    [​IMG]

    Need to purchase the gaskets for the side covers, then I think I can say that the engine is pretty much there apart from some small tidying.

    Couple of questions:-

    What's the easiest way to crank this engine over. Want to ensure that all is working as it should.

    Also, would you guys recommend replacing the belts whilst the engine is out. In which case, please kindly point me towards a good how to.

    Lastly, Threebond 1215. Any good alternatives? the US guys seem to have lots of options. Not to many here it would appear. £17 for a tube for the non branded stuff is the best I can get.

    My dad popped over on his 748R the other day, more inspiration to finish the project, just a beautiful bike.

    More to follow.
     
    • Like Like x 1
  7. You should think about the belts and while their off, pull the cams and get a look at your rockers, check clearances etc, before cosmetics, its looking good but.
     
    • Like Like x 1
  8. Definitely easier to do the belts while the engine is out.
    Steve
     
  9. To turn the engine over ,plugs out take the covers off exhaust and intakes, and there is a cover over the end of the crank, left side two bolts take that off and you can put a bolt and nut with a socket on the end ,tighten nut against the socket onto end off crank , then you can turn the bolt to turn the engine.
     
  10. Some better photos of the engine.
    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]
     
  11. Washhand,
    Thanks for your comments. I'll have a look into this and see how I get on.
     
  12. Much easier to check the valve clearances with the engine out, especially the rear cylinder exhaust.

    Looking good. :upyeah:
     
  13. Hi all,
    I've managed to get my mits on the service history, which show a full engine rebuild at 8,000kms, this was 5 years ago but the bike has only covered 2,000kms since. First question, it is odd to be Kms?

    So, in my eyes that means the internals are going to be fine, no need to start taking things apart, but 5 years since a belt change... I think that almost certainly would need replacing.

    So I have found a guide on how to do this (it has a green background on the web page) which seems to lay it out, and I plan on checking a couple of videos on YouTube. MY QUESTION is where would one but the belts from, is this a Ducati only part? and if so, are they horridly expensive? Also, and apologies, but if one is turning the engine via the crank with the plugs and covers removed (under the cover on the alternator engine cover side, thanks Washhand) what way do do I turn it?

    Additionally, and not related, the REAR HUB NUT was ruined whilst taking the bike apart (after a bit of trawling, it seems a faitly common issue for those which have tightened by the unititiated and a rattle gun) . Again, can you guys recommend a suitable replacement. Owing to the fact that this ultimately holds the wheel on, I don't want a micky mouse one, but wondered if there was a "better than OE" one available.

    I've also come accross the sprocket can of worms about what set-up is better. I understand at 14/40 is the way to go... cue comments.

    More questions i'm sure will follow.

    Thanks all, Happy Tuesday.
    J
     
  14. See the posts on here about Exactfit belts, cheaper than OEM Ducati ones and coming in April apparently. Do you mean the alloy hub on the sprocket side is damaged or the axle that holds the rear disc and wheel on.

    www.exactUK.com - ExactFit Belts Fitments & Price

    Alloy hub damage is common due to cush drive rubbers perishing and the sleeves backing out and wearing the hub away. A quick release sprocket can sort out this problem or it is possible to peen the hub enough to stop the bushes coming out again.

    If it's the hub you will need a new one which you can pick up on eBay, if it's the axle you should be able to find one again on ebay but they seem to be rarer.
     
  15. Thanks Re the belts, they are pretty lumpy aren't they! Certainly compared to a car belt, as far as I remember.

    I'm talking about the castellated nut, M33 (?) on the rear axle.
     
  16. antiClockwise
     
    #38 Washhand, Mar 31, 2015
    Last edited: Apr 1, 2015
  17. Hi all,

    Purchased the belts from Exige, the distributor for CA Cycleworks, excellent item and super rapid delivery. Would recommend!

    Assembly starting soon!

    Wheels are with the local bike shop to remove the tyres and front bearing ready for painting.

    Has a good look at the box of bolts and fixings, see below picture. There were all separately sorted and labelled by my dad but the plater mixed them all up :(

    Any one lend any help as to what may go where. I'm sure it will start to come together once the bike is being constructed, but any help would be greatly appreciated!

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    Thanks all,
    Jamie
     
    • Like Like x 1
  18. Looks like virtually every part of the bike?!, which is going to be difficult to sort out without a comparison. The dzus fasteners for example you don't have enough of for the full fairing as you only have some of the side fasteners and not the rest nor the under belly, you need four more, it seems.

    Do the bolts that have been replated include the engine as well?

    Some parts you can figure out using the original Ducati workshop manual others will be more difficult. It also looks like you may have some parts missing. You seem to have two front seat hinge plates when only one is used.

    I have an engine on a stand and I can measure each bolt for you if that helps, that will then leave the rest as being frame bolts assumedly, but it does look like you have certain bolts missing, it's hard to tell size from just the photos in isolation.

    To be fully certain of what goes where you really need a fully completed bike to compare bolt lengths to, I think it might take some time to work through it all. Go through each part and PM me when you want to know a specific bolt and I can check no doubt against one of the several bikes I have in my workshop.

    It's hard to tell from your photos as they won't increase in size on my PC, I am sure we can get there though.

    Good luck
     
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