You could of course revise the whole fuelling system by running a pump and filters outside the tank.... .......cost would be about £50 depending on how handy you are...
That might be an solution, I am trying to keep it original but might have no choice, how do you change it to the external pump?
When / if, my pump or filter need attention, I'm only going inside the tank once...............that will be to take the stuff out. From Fuel Pumps online, a Facet Posi-Flow 1.5-4psi 8mm solid state pump will get fitted on the mounting kit on a homemade appropriate bracket to the small web in the frame on the right side where the upper full fairing mount is fitted........it means the pump is below the level of the tank. The pipe inside the tank that has the OEM pump and internal filter, will have a section about 25mm long cut out just above the tap outlet (leaving enough stub to be able to revert to the OEM route with a short length of hose). This means the pump is now initially under gravity feed, which is enough to prime the pump. Hose from the tap outlet would lead to an external filter somewhere on the right side near or behind the tank which then connects to the pump........another small filter could be fitted after the pump as well. If see-through filters are used the advantages are obvious. The OEM pump wires would be disconnected and revised to power the new pump. One thing that I haven't established as yet, which is I don't know if the pump will allow fuel to flow under gravity when not working; might mean an electric on / off valve may be needed before the pump which can also be controlled by the same power supply as the pump. The pump would cost about £28, the mounting kit is £5.50 odd, filters are about £8.00. The cut-off switch is about £15.
No idea.............probably No....in fact No, unless you fit a pressure regulator as well.....(higher pressure 'cos it would be for an injection model)..........(and not mounted outside....).
Just fitted the pump all is well, the bike fired and started first time, even though being stood for a few years, but it cut out and now won't start. It has had a full service, and carbs have been ultrasonic cleaned. Any ideas?
Got a spark at the plugs? Or not turning over? Did it cut out very quickly or was it running for more than a few minutes? A 'fill' of the carbs will normally last the equivalent of about a mile of normal riding..........I know this because I have switch on my fuel pump and I forget to switch it on sometimes.
Seems like no fuel at the carbs, possibly...........When you cleaned everything, did you clean the tiny filter in the Tee-piece that is on the last bit of fuel pipe before it enters the carbs? Or is the fuel pipe kinked somewhere? In fact, is the pump running when you switch the ignition on?
I thought it might if been no fuel, but a nice big flame comes out the exhaust after you tried turning it over for a while. I took the top of the air box off and you can see the fuel spitting when you try turning it over with the throttle open. Yep the fuel pump is pumping.
I guess from reading the whole thread again, this is the first time the bike has been run since the carbs were cleaned................were they stripped completely for cleaning? If so, were the float bowls and the float assemblies removed?.........and was the float level altered? Also, check the pilot screw settings..........for OEM jets and needles, they should be about 2.5 turns out from fully screwed in (don't overdo screwing them in) and for a Dynojet kit, about 3.5 turns out. Have you pre-balanced the carbs before refitting them? Do it with a thin bit of wire or a feeler gauge so that both butterflies are open a tiny amount..... You haven't said (I think) if a Dynojet kit is fitted.
Ye it is the first time, I will need to strip the carbs off and check it over again. They where stripped as much as I could do, I didn't take the pilot or them main out as someone had been playing around and done a bodge on the little bracket that sits ontop.
You need to access the needles, the big springs and the main jet size markings....... Check the pic out..........The OEM main jets will have a size number and a little square logo.........the DJ ones only have a number. To be blunt, unless you have had all the jets out and the pilot screws out then ultrasonic cleaning of the carbs wouldn't have been worth doing........the galleries for the pilot screws are tiny and there is one area within the gallery which is like a small chamber that easily contain tons of cr*p.... Also have you checked the O-rings and seals, including the ones that are hidden under the throttle slide light grey plastic body where the emulsion tubes are situated?? With regard to the bracket you refer to, do you mean the little fork shaped thing (piece of brass?) that holds the main jet in place? If so, how has it been bodged? We here can probably find you a spare if Allens don't have them.
Ye the little fork bracket has been soldered or something. I was very nervous about undoing it. If I can get one I will take it off. I will strip the carbs off again and ultrasonic the lot.
See pic............I'm assuming you mean the item marked as 'Retainer'.........If so I also assume one of the fork legs has been broken off and repaired. It should come undone easily enough, but if it breaks I'm sure someone has got a spare. When the carbs are stripped and cleaned, make sure everything is spotless when you reassemble them. With regard to the fuel height / float levels, don't mix up the float assemblies and don't alter the setting........but it would be a good idea to check the setting measurement........... To do so, without a float bowl gasket fitted, turn a float bowl around the other way so the gasket face holds down the float assembly in the carb (using two screws to hold the float bowl on) and then measure from the carb body gasket face to the top of the larger float........make sure that the float needle doesn't compress its spring, so you will need to tip the carb slightly so the float needle just closes. Somewhere between say, 12 - 14mm could be expected.........but don't be surprised if it is as low as 9mm.
Ye the retainer was fixed by someone at some point. If I am stripping it I might as well replace it. Where can I get them from? I will take loads if photos when I strip the carbs.
Allens Performance may have the retainers...........Same carbs as the Yam TDM850. I have one if you get really stuck, but its my only spare. PS........You needn't split the carbs apart unless you can make a note of how the throttle / balance screw linkage fits together, but you may not be able to check the right side carb air cut-off diaphragm (on the left side of each carb) unless you do.........I made up some tools so I could do it, involving a 6mm ring spanner and a short crosshead bit.......
