A long crosshead screwdriver should be your answer here, just to increase the idle speed a bit.......either that or check the pilot screw settings..............for that, carefully screw them all the way in and count accurately the number of turns and make a note of them. I don't know if you have a Dynojet kit fitted, so it may be a bit of guesswork involved tweaking them to improve the idle speed. NB! Record accurately every change you make to them.......even 1/8 of a turn will make a difference and both screws needn't necessarily have the same setting. You may find you need to turn the throttle stop screw up to be able to keep it running while you play with the pilot screws.........but don't be surprised if it then doesn't shut off quickly.
Brilliant news that she starts up Let's hope that increasing the idle speed does the trick. If it doesn't, it may be because your fine drillings have got gummed and blocked by leaving fuel in the float bowls that dries out and leaves gummy residues.
Bike now running near perfectly, just have to get belt covers and fairings back on before getting her MOT'd. Pilot screws needed to come out a turn to 3.5 and idle speed needed picked up a touch. Now starts on half choke and once warm idles at around 1400rpm. Sounds really sweet. Rode round the block and all the issues that I had when the bike was taken off the road have been resolved, I am one happy bunny! Thanks again everyone!
That's good news....... Pilot screws at 3.5 turns out, suggests you may have a Dynojet kit fitted. 1400rpm seems a bit high to me.....mine will just about tickover at 1050, but I keep it set at 1100 - 1200rpm.
It's possible it may be running a bit rich at those settings, it was a very quick set up last night, I'll pull the plugs after I've done a few miles to see how they're looking. On the other hand there could be a jet kit in there, second hand carbs with little or no history. Manual says 12-1300 rpm, will give it a tweak.
The stock pilot setting is usually about 2.5 turns out IIRC. The trouble with these carbs is that the fuel level in the float bowl is part of the pilot circuit.......so if you fiddle with the floats, you can end up with pilot crew adjustment issues...........also, the pilot circuit is what effectively runs the bike up to about 2500rpm when the slides start to lift. .....if you get it running just about right, then leave everything else alone....or at least if you decide to clean the carbs out, don't adjust the floats........the 14mm arbitrary measurement that people quote appears to be way out and I reckon it should be nearer to 12mm or even 11mm.
I see, well it was running pretty lean at 2.5 turns and good at 3.5, sounds like I should leave it well alone! Bring on the MOT on Saturday
My pilot screws are at 4 turns out..........Dynojet Stage II kit fitted and the float levels are at 12.5mm (or was it 13mm?.......I will have to check my notes). Good luck with the MOT.....don't let the tester tip the bike onto the sidestand only....it could damage either by bend, fracture or break. My tester has never had to tip my bike onto the sidestand or lift it by any other means........That's because I use a small motorcycle workshop and the tester is long experienced and knows what should be part of the test and what shouldn't.
out of curiosity just checked my Haynes (oh you fucked it up your going to check what you should have done ) manual and it states carby models tickover should be 1200 to 1300 must get mine sorted as it ticks over a bit high somewhere around 1700 rpm but cannot manually set tickover on mine bloody injection systems lol
would still love a carby 900 viv but space money and the wife are an issue at the moment anyway the ie is no pampered princess and gets used and abused and keeps ticking so far lol
