one strange thing i WILL confess is that.. im not smelling ANY fuel whatsoever, i even tried WOT, no throttle, little thtrottle, no throttle w/ 25% choke, 50% choke and hell! even 100% choke... still nothing, and no smell of fuel.... i know there is plenty of fuel in the tank... soooo.......wtf? what is the easy way to test to see if im getting fuel or not? and there are no kinks in the fuel lines
Thats not good, and would definitely cause starting problems. Your starter cable may not have a very good connection, despite it's size. Do you have a length of cable you could make a quick lead from? Undo a case bolt, wrap the wire around it then and it back in so it has a good connection then fix it to the negative terminal and try again? RE: Fuel - check for kinks under the tank and check to hear if the pump primes when you switch the ignition on. If there is no noise then you have narrowed your list of areas to check.
I suspect the upper cable eye tag you show in the photo was once an ancillary item such as an alarm that has now been removed. Your bike wouldn't have ever ran without an earth to the frame/engine,certainly won't hurt to do what you are now doing with the extra earth cable to help though. If it's attempting to start but spluttering I would suggest you do what I mentioned in my other post!
There is no 'choke' on your bike, there is a 'cold start lever' which actually is just a method of holding the throttle slightly open. You won't have any petrol reaching the injectors unless the fuel pump is working, can you hear the pump prime when initially turning on the ignition? . Whip out the horizontal cylinders plug and see if it is wet, it should be if you have been attempting to start the bike and the fuel is reaching the injectors!
the pump does prime, ive checked for kinks and no kinks, i guess all thats left to do is to check the plug condition, but im pretty sure they are not soaked in fuel because i cant even smell fuel. that picture i showed you is the earth wire connection, as shown in the workshop manual, so either the previous owner moved the earth lead elsewhere and left that unconnected.. i dont knw, but it doesnt look right... i dont have any thick cabled lying about, so im gonna go to halfords tonight and buy some, connect it, and try again.
and if this fails, i will check the plugs. but that will be a nother day because its getting dark here already!
If, as you say the pump is working, assuming nothing else is untowards such a blocked filter, split fuel line/disconnected fuel line then you attempting to start the bike would have definitely flooded the cylinders with fuel and soaked the plugs. I suggest your time would be well spent removing both stick coils and plugs and cleaning and drying them.If you have never done this you will probably be surprised how manky they look!
Your earth lead is still in place The mod I have been recommending to people is to install an auxillary earth lead from the -ve terminal of the battery to the bolt of the starter motor (it has 3 but only one is visible). You can see the bolt if you look from the battery side towards the middle of the engine. Get yourself a pre-assembled lead from a motor factors for the job
also if the plugs are wet, wouldnt WOT help them dry it out? i was told that WOT puts the bike in a state where only air gets through and cuts the fuel out... if thats true, then shall i open the throttle before turning the ignition on, or after?
Are you still getting no fault codes ? This Ducati 999 / 749 EOBD Error Codes Ducati 999/749 EOBD Codes Listed below are the Ducati error codes for the 999/749 series which are very handy to know... If your stead decides to create an error and then flashes her yellow warning strobe (the EOBDlight) then follow these steps.... 1) Turn the ignition to 'OFF' (Whilst stationary that is...) 2) Depress and hold the left hand instrument panel button 3) Turn the ignition to 'ON' whilst still depressing the left hand button 4) You should then see the error codes displayed 5) Make a mental note of the codes and cross reference with the following list......... ERROR CODES 1.1 = Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) Disconnected 1.2 = Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) short circuit to earth 2.1 = Pressure Sensor short circuit to power supply 2.2 = Pressure Sensor shorted to earth 3.1 = Water Temp Sensor shorted to power supply 3.2 = Water Temp Sensor shorted to earth 4.1 = Air Temp Sensor shorted to power supply 4.2 = Air Temp Sensor Shorted to earth 5.1 = Battery Hi 5.2 = Battery Lo 10.1 = Horizontal Coil shorted to power supply 10.2 = Horizontal Coil shorted to earth 11.1 = Vertical Coil shorted to power supply 11.2 = Vertical Coil shorted to earth 12.1 = Inj1 shorted to power supply 12.2 = Inj1 shorted to earth 13.1 = Inj2 shorted to power supply 13.2 = Inj2 shorted to earth 14.1 = Inj3 shorted to to power supply 14.2 = Inj3 shorted to earth 15.1 = Inj4 shorted to powersupply 15.2 = Inj4 shorted to earth 16.0 = Pump Relay 17.1 = L/H Fan shorted to power supply 17.2 = L/H Fan shorted to earth 18.1 = R/H Fan shorted to power supply 18.2 = R/H Fan shorted to earth 19.1 = Starter Solenoid shorted to power supply 19.2 = Starter Solenoid shorted to earth 30.0 = ROM/Eprom error 34.0 = Signal Panel Sensor 36.0 = Speed sensor 37.0 = Immobiliser (transponder) 37.1 = Immobiliser (antenna) 37.2 = Immobiliser (instrument panel serial driver) 37.3 = Immobiliser (serial cable disconnected) 37.4 = Immobiliser (ccm serial drive) 37.5 = Immobiliser (key not recognised) 37.6 = Can Line error
so a little more updates, i hooked the battery up to my dads car via jump leads and tried it a few times like that, and nothing happend, it just cranked over. so i decided to remove the pump relay and go WOT, so i did, i thought by doing this, there would b 0 fuel flow and maximum air flow to dry the plugs IF they are wet. did that 4 times. put the relay back in, and tried to start it normally, 0 cold start. and it cranked and every 2 cranks it coughed up as if it was about to start, but it never, this happened a few times, untill it totally stoped coughing and i was back to square one. what does this mean? could be a dodgy pump relay? i know that relay controls way more than just the pump. ive ordered 2 more of those, i hope itl arrive soon! im gonna go crazy, ive installed new cans and ive not even heard them yet! !
just me saying this from my own experience , as I said before ,you may have a fooked ECU, hope not but I would be looking to get it on a laptop. As mentioned above by Crystaljohn I would look for a spark , take out front horizontal coilpack look at plug ,see condition then see if its sparking, if it isn't it saves you going to the hassle of removing seat/tank . If it isn't it could be coil packs but I would be tempted to save a lot of grief and have the bike looked at. Working on a bike is fine this time of year if you have A the time B the tools C the premises and D the expertise. If not its probably more cost effective to have it done. Is there not a dealer close ish or an independent. or even one of us guys with a van and time (for a few quid ) to transport it for you. That's something I'd do for any one on here if I was close enough. Regards PJ
yeah i will probably get it looked at by a dealer, its just transport is the problem, i doubt any of you guys live in scotland lol. i will see what i can do, il inspect the coils and plugs, but i wont go any further than that. if those are not the problem, il try and find a trailer from somewhere and get it delivered to a dealer.
Possibly but if it was running before (previous owner ) I shouldn't think it would suddenly decide that 6000 is pack up time , don't think Ducati would be that nasty to program in a service or breakdown code.
The guys have suggested valid things to check. If the TPS is out on the bike then it will never start. For a small outlay you can put together the leads to connect to the diagnostic port and then download JPDiag for free. Depending on which ECU your bike has then JPDiag will either fully function immediately or you will require a free licence. (IAW59M = fully function, IAW5AM = licence. IAW59M were used up to about 2004). This is everything you need. Don't buy others. KKL lead KKL Lead Fiat Adaptor FIAT Adaptor Do not use any drivers that come with the KKL lead. Run this program before attaching the lead to your PC FTDI Driver Download the software from here JPDiag Make sure you read the FAQ. If you do need a licence then PM me as I can help you get one. You will see that the Fiat adaptor has two fly leads. The red one goes to the +ve terminal of the battery. The black one should only be connected to a good earthing point on the frame or engine. NEVER attach it to the battery. Observe this and you will not damage your ECU by inverting polarity.
