Haven't checked mine exactly, but the hooked end of the spring goes under the brake lever from the outside / right side; and the other end hooks into the underside of the clevis pin for the footrest............The clevis pin has a drilling / hole in the end, and it hooks into that.... AL
not sure if carby assembly is the same as ie model al ! top picture is what i should have .......i think other two are of what is on the bike
well picked up the part needed for the rear brake pedal spring took apart and cleaned and greased parts while there job done 5 minutes work whoo now i dont have a flickering brake light lol well looks like i am running out of things to fix ahh well i'll just have to ride it on a side note friend with a gsxr 1000 was a bit envious due to lack of bitch strips on back tyre old bikes rule lol
(well looks like i am running out of things to fix........) well seems i have plenty to fix on the bike after the remodeling work from a nice car driver and tarmac tonight just got to have a good look in proper daylight to see how much but think my exhaust system could be scrap and one of my lovely exhaust hangers is snapped bah.....
Why on earth did you say you were running out of things to fix, you clearly tempted fate. Hope you are OK
Hope you aren't injured John........F-me, only just got it going and done a few hundred miles.......... I hope the car driver is responsible and it gets sorted by their insurance.
well had a good look tonight rear brake lever is bent possible right hand handlebar bent right hand indicator smashed front brake resauvoir bracket bent silencers damaged and both silencer brackets snapped oh and nice cheese grater effect on right hand engine casing well a quote on parts from moto italia was around £1300 but think i can sort this a bit cheaper :Wideyed: and only damage to me is a strained achiles tendon and a bruise from my disc lock digging into my hip doh
well quick update after a check handlebar is straight ran a file around end good as new resavoir bracket sorted with a pair of pliers ( high tech lol) might be able to jig and weld exhaust brackets got to take them into work to see when i get them off was thinking of re-sleeving the silencers but not come up with a source for titanium sleeves ....yet found a place on the net just up the road mainly doing carbon sleeves going to see if they do titanium in the meantime might see if i can get the dents out on the upside got some bar end weights from newark auto jumble but didnt find a secondhand rear brake lever been silly and looking at adjustable ones from china on ebay .......somebody stop meeee :Bag:
you will struggle top find titanium sleeves,if you find any let me no,how badly damaged is yours??? pic
What diameter are your can sleeves? I took my anodised alloy ones off and replaced them with carbon (probably from the same place you are thinking of)....... If my ally cans are any good to you....... How badly is the brake pedal bent? I have straightened two satisfactorily.......
well had one of the rear silencers apart and had a go at removing the dents ........ thanks for the offer al but i think i might be able to rescue them the pedal is not the worst bent in 10-15 mm enough to be a pain lol thought about straightning it but never had great results with alloy levers before but keep looking at adjustable levers on ebay .........must stay sober......... always found the oem lever a bit low any way on with the show lol her is the piccys knocked out not too bad ...
My can sleeves are round ones but are in decidedly better condition........and they are from a 750 SS IE Laser system...........the sleeves are there if you need them.... Brake lever................Clamp it in the vice, heat it up, not too much, don't let it get red hot or nuffink, then stick a large ring spanner over it and gently apply body weight pressure..........first one I did, I went too far and had to bring it back a bit.....still working fine. There are two methods for testing the heat..........one is rub a pine stick on the heated area.......when it starts to char slightly, it is hot enough. The other is rub a bar of soap on it........when the soap smears turn black, it's hot enough. Personally, I didn't have much success with those methods......and just got it hot without it going red hot. NB! Do not quench the item once you have finished....allow it to air cool.
cheers for the advice al might have a go well the exhaust i have had a look at was the right hand side the one on the left is more out of line photo shows how far out ..........but mainly put it because there is a bin in the background lol
well so far back on track sorted the silencers dents removed hardly noticable unless looking for the marks well they will do for now new indicators arrived and so did a nice new cnc machined brake lever all fitted and sorted exhaust hangers fixed and welded just a bit of sanding and painting will have to get arse in gear and get some pics up
well all back together and sorted took bike out for a blast dam good to be back on 2 wheels the right way up lol
Good news.... With regard to your silcencers being out of line, I had a bit of an issue with the same thing, so I slackened off all the joints at the exhaust manifolds and the connections of the headers etc, then shoved a long bar down the inside of one of the offending can and heaved the bugger to where it should be.......I was lucky, I guess, that my cans are straight through so a bar can be stuck right inside to where the inlet is.
the main bit with the exhausts out of line was the brackets were bent and snapped although i have never been sure that the collector section is exactley straight even when i got the bike lol but looks a lot straighter now
