Are you aware that cracks in the frame are an issue on these bikes? They tend to crack where the top frame rail meets the headstock at the end of the reinforcing plate right in front of the tank. If yours hasn't cracked yet, it might be worth checking out the bracing bar sold by a guy on this forum. This braces the top rails together and fits between the headstock and tank, reducing flex, so hopefully preventing cracks in the frame rails.
Yup, and the tanks rust and they don't start cos the wires aren't thick enough and the crank plug comes lose and etc. Don't doubt any of those things, but thus far none have afflicted this one (should probably reserve judgment on the wiring til I get it fired up, lol). I decided to leave it unless it was broken. Might pay for it later, but we'll see.. Mick..
It's more a matter of when the frame rails will crack than if they will. Once they've cracked, you have the problem of how to carry out a repair. Well worth it to spend the price of a brace IF it really works and prevents any cracking. I was lucky and got what was perhaps the last free replacement frame from Ducati but it was a right pain in the ass having to swap it.
Yep, might have to retrofit something later if it suffers the cracks, but at 33k+ miles, it's done alright so far. Mick..
so just a bit more progress to report: Oil cooler cleaned up, cover on and plumbed in. Was going to do away with it altogether (it's not like it gets that hot around here...) but Mr Ducati wanted it there so...: Wiring in, battery on and...we have electrickery. Lights and so on work as they should - except the rear brake light - bugger (no wheelie bins, but there's a couple of plant pots for you..)! And this happened: Main issues now are the exhausts drama (see my other thread), sorting my leaky nipples (just ordered genuine ones from Ducati - seems those Brembo parts are classed as service items and can be got through Ducati), fill it with oil and see if it goes.... Then fit the bodywork up and...leave it in the garage til Spring...:Banghead: MICK..
Along with engines like the Suzuki Bandit of the same era, the Desmodue is classed as an air/oil cooled engine, so the oil cooler is an integral part of the design, not just an add-on. So you were very wise to leave it there, I'd say.
@Wonkier donkey The Motor looks good, as it all does, im just in the process of doing the same with the Superlight. What engine paint did you use ? Cheers Si
Haha - blind leading the blind, this... I soda blasted the engine first - pics and a few words somewhere above in this thread. Then I used Autotek etch primer (rattle can) on the whole thing. Silver is Halfords "aluminium" colour engine paint (rattle can) and the black is PJ1 "fast black". I've always managed to get decent results with spray cans - I find the trick is to use loads of really thin coats. Doing it again, I'd sand the engine a bit more after soda blasting as there's a few slightly rougher patches. Mind, the motor was in a sorry way, so perhaps I'm being picky. Dunno how it'll last. I already know the PJ1 isn't resistant to clutch fluid! Due to my leaky nipples, the clutch cover will need doing again. I'm contemplating trying that in situ once the clutch is sorted but not examined the option properly yet. Mick..
Cool, i originally soda blasted mine, however i reckon i didnt clean it well enough after as the paint hasnt lasted. Its gonna have to get done again. This time i may just clean it by hand, ive got all winter to do it. Its the biggest job i have to do. I have some VHT flameproof paint for the exhaust and etch primer and VHT for the engine, i didnt use etch primer originally and this may have contributed to bad results too.
I believe Soda Blasting leaves a residue that needs to be washed off. Please see comments below from Millar Soda Blasting Supplies. ----------------------------- Hi Gary Removing the soda from the surface is very easy as it is water soluble. Either wipe down with a warm damp sponge or wash off with a hose, if possible. If the surface is at all absorbent, use a very weak vinegar solution. We usually follow this with a wipe down with panel wipe to ensure that no oil or greasy finger marks are present. For aluminium, the same wipe down procedure applies. For both steel and aluminium, it is necessary to use a good acid etch primer as the blasted surface has no key for paint to bite into. It is true that unless the soda is removed, two pack paints in particular will not cure properly. The reaction is easy to see as the primer just doesn’t dry properly. We have never had a problem with any etch primer that we have applied. Kind Regards, Michael Millar ---------------------------------- Cheers Gaz
I power washed mine after soda blasting. Should have seen the state of the yard!!! Once it was dry, an air line to blow any remainig soda away - especially in the odd nook and cranny. Mick..
Well, cover me in flour and eggs and bake me for forty minutes.. It works!! It actually works. I didn't break it!! Tank on, fuel lines connected, filled it with oil (bit too much but seemed happy enough...), 5l of petrol and....brum brum!! Second prod of the button. Smoked like a Mexican pirate as it burned off the oil, grease, dust and cleaning product, but started and ran for a good while reasonably smoothly. About the oil - the book says 5W/40 but the mechanic I borrowed the lift off said that was way too thin and it should be 15W. Any views? Still to do - more sorting the blasted exhausts: cutting and adjusting for now, but if it all goes OK, I'll cut them properly next year and weld the cans to the link pipes. See if I can find a solution to the continually weeping brake bleed nipples: it's only a tiny amount now so not desperate, but not ideal obviously. Fit the remaining bodywork and so forth. Probably change the oil and make sure all's good there. Sit back and feel chuffed with myself....:Smug: Mick..
:flushed::flushed::flushed::flushed: Congrats Mick! Looks stunning. I wish mine will end up firing up the same yours have done.. beautiful machine!
m Well done! So your mechanic friend knows better than the Ducati engineers who designed and built your engine? Clever guy... Reminds me of the Triumph mechanics who told me I might as well piss in my engine as put new fangled multigrade 20/40 oil in it. What I needed was good old SAE 30 or 40 oil in it. What they didn't understand was that although 20/40 oil was thinner when cold than SAE 40, it was exactly the same viscosity when hot. Amazingly, your mechanic pal seems to suffer from the same misconception 45 years on!
