I found the same, it was one of the first mods I did, I also did the 14t front sprocket at the same time which meant I wasn't using the clutch as much in slow speed stuff. it makes a difference but don't expect a radical change is my thoughts.
Its a 10m job to fit R1 throttle tube. Easy peasy. My 1198 has only slash cut termi STM 48T Slipper DP Seat Suspension set up someminor smatterings of CF Gorilla Zilla rear Sets R1 Throttle Tube Not going to do much more as the bike will likely be sold autumn for a new bike next yr. (RSV4)
Unless you don't slacken the cables enough & the stuff pings off in all directions across the universe.... Assuming you don't need to spend three hours on your hands & knees searching for the bottom bolt & top half of the cable casing... Yeah... Ten minute job. Whats it like?... Not a clue as its tossed down since fitment :Bawling:
@bootsam I'll be honest mate, twisting that throttle with the engine off, it doesn't seem THAT much different to the standard action... As above not used it properly yet but is it a improvement out on the road?
I'd assume they were a common part across the 848 / 1*98 range... I need to get out on her for a road test. After work looks promising.. We'll see.
thanks for the thoughts on the tube, I think it's a cheap try over a full quick action set up. And looks like the kill switch doesn't work with some of the quick action options. @Hutch - Tell us more about your remap ?
Cant praise BSD (Peterborough) enough... Prior to the dyno run Mark noted that if it wasn't far out he could trim the fueling making for a cheap fix... As it happened the bike was too lean to trim & she needed the new map... Mark was keen to show me what he was doing every step of the way including the new map he had applied & where the fuel had been added..... All in it cost me £550, that's for 3 dyno's / the new map & new belts supplied / fitted.... Rode her home and was seriously amazed at the extra torque low down (where she was the most lean)... She's like a new bike.. Increase of 2bhp + 3lbs of torque overall but it was never about that, I just wanted the assurance she wasn't about to hole a piston. Ducati 848 ECU remap | BSD Performance P.s not sure where Birmingham came from... I'm about 20 miles north of the city... Plus my 3" exits may not be the most efficient but are they loud?? Just a bit.... Fueling is now there to compensate anyway.
@Fastmonkey one thing mate, you mention above some of the FA throttle tubes not being compatible with the fuel cut-off housing? Its an independent unit so swapping over doesn't involve the FCOS at all... Unless you mean the other tubes have their own FCOS built in?
Having your bike properly set up on Dyno has likely helped your throttle @Hutch Mine hasnt had its set up yet. Thats next.
@bootsam I now know that a lean mix = poor response & 'snatchiness' especially on small throttle openings... Having had the 848 as lean throughout my ownership I though they were all like that... The extra fuel low down has seriously helped & its an effort to keep the front down now.... With the open pipes I'd say that the DP map is an absolute must & without it I'm certain she'd be fucked internally by now... But the DP map shouldn't be considered a permanent solution... Custom map bespoke to your machine is the way to go.. I'd been told this ages ago & wish I'd actioned it sooner.
No mate, fettled the original ECU.... Allegedly it has tighter steps than the PC, allows you to finer tune the fuelling across each step of the RPM
Yeah, why are the throttle connections coming out the top and covering the kill-switch? My Mods are just: - Oberon Clutch Slave Cylinder - DP Race Seat (not the thick one, the flat one, to stop me sliding around all the time) - 14T Front Sprocket, has massively improved ride ability. - Single Seat cowl and removal of rear pegs.
Question for you, are these the 'new style' Leo Vinci's that they say they have updated the tail sections? if so do you have any shots of the back of them?
That looks like its too far round... The cables should be underneath & you should find a lug (pin?) under the cable housing that locates into a hole under the bar...
