Nothing to do with me that one . @Webby01 as said above the default position of the exvl is open. At key on the ecu cycles it closed and open again, if it can’t do that then it throws an error and most likely an EML. The valve is designed to close around 3500rpm and open again around 5500rpm give it take a bit for different engines. This is because emission (and more crucially noise) levels are measured in this range for EU type approval. The best thing to do is to buy either a Healtech or DucEE eliminator they’re not expensive. They simply plug into the connector that connects the servo motor to the loom this you can remove the heavy servo motor and the cables. There’s no need to wire open or cut out the valve itself as it will remain in the open position, but do check its default position for yourself. As for the lambda (O2) sensors, remove them and you’ll definitely get an EML. I don’t know what, if any, benefit you’ll get from removing them unless you plan to use the bike solely on the track. If anything, for road use, it will be detrimental. The ECU reads the signal from the lambda sensors when the engine is in closed loop mode ie up to 1/4 throttle opening (that’s throttle body valve opening not right hand wrist position) and when the bike is running at a constant throttle position. Based upon the level of O2 in the exhaust, as read by the sensors, the ECU continually trims the fuelling for the optimum. If you want to remove them you’ll have to spend time and money on a dyno to get a custom map made for your bike, air filter and exhaust. Even if you go down this route I’d be surprised if the tuner you use would recommend their removal if the bike is to be used on the road. I really can’t see there’s anything to be gained by their removal.
@West Cork Paul thanks, that is a comprehensive and informed note. Healtech ordered, i'll leave the O2 sensors. I was just intrigued as the race systems delete them, but good advice, i'll retain
Almost at a point of removing the old engine now. Just need to remove swingarm spindle and 2 engine bolts. Then i can put next to the 'new' one and start swapping parts over. New parts and various tools are starting to arrive. 'New' engine is missing the lhs casing and water pump etc, so i'll swap off old engine, along with clutch cover which is loads cleaner I'm not 100% sure whether to get the frame powdercoated, but as the bike is pretty much stripped, its prime time. There are a few rub marks and scuffs, but it is and always will be a CAT N, but its not that expensive and makes it all shiny and i'd rather start with a good base. But i don't want anything to add potential delay to getting the bike back on the road... Need some new tyres on the rims as old ones are soaked in oil. Not worth risking. Need a quick check of brake pads etc, as lot of oil was flying about. Evidence on the discs. Whole bike and every component will need degreasing and cleaning prior to refit. Plastics are a mixed bag. lhs are fine, rhs all damaged. I reckon i can get away with plastic welding and reinforcing some of the damage. Seat unit is mullered, so new required. rhs main fairing is scuffed, but will sand back smooth. Belly pan rhs has a chunk missing so can use but need a new one. Headlight is fine, which is good news. New headlight bracket with engine, so all good. Need a rhs mirror, bar and bar end weights (give me a shout if anyone has spares). Got rearsets and new brake lever assembly with new engine, so another box ticked, albeit actually pegs are sh8te looking aftermarket ones, so need replacing, but will do the job, until i find suitable alternatives/assemblies. Found a 1098R alloy subframe, but also found that Motoholders do one too, so may go down that avenue, not that a subfarme is required, but someone on here did this on their 1098 (sorry cant recall name, but good thread and thought provoking). But shouldn't get carried away at this point, need a working bike first!
Oops, old age strikes again Found it - it was @bradders ... https://www.ducatiforum.co.uk/threads/exhaust-valve-mod-pictures.60912/
Race systems will have them deleted as their bikes will be running in open loop mode 99.9% of the time as the throttle is either open (and usually wide open) or closed, so the ECU chucks all the fuel it can into the throttle bodies. If you're interested this link explains it succinctly (nothing to do with me)
Newer bikes like the bmw s1000rr have wide band lambda sensors, you can tell the bike what ratio you want and when, it will do the rest. Older bikes with narrow lambda sensors will have them cutoff in the software and a specific map made using a temporary wide band sendor. This is good for the time and place it's done but if you go up a mountain it will not run so well.
A long weekend away slowed progress with the 848, but back now and will hopefully drop the old engine today and get the heads off. Crank turning tool, cam locking tools and some other parts arrived whilst i was away so hoping i am good to go. Just before the weekend i swapped some of the cleaner parts onto the new engine, including rear exhaust shield. Looking forward to getting this sorted...
Engine out and propped on bench next to the other engine. Bike looking a little worthless now, or a posh wheelbarrow, depending on your glass status (half full/empty). Head removed from old engine and in good condition so can be put onto new engine and hopefully bolt it all back together. Head gasket required - trip to Ducati tomorrow. Also ordered another tool to remove stator cover as didnt realise that needs a special tool - its not really that special, as its a bit of metal with 2 x M5 bolts and a larger M10 or similar that pushes against the crank. Could have made one, but at £15 just ordered it up as other jobs in interim and better use of time. Feel like i'm getting somewhere now. Just want to hear it running and i'll be a happy fella. Photos to follow
i also polished the rear header pipe. It was a bit of a test last week, to see what it came up like, as disappointingly you cant really see it when all assembled, but i'll try and motivate myself to do some of the other pipework at some stage now i know it works. Lets get it running first. I do have a photo, so i'll post it up later
Front wheel needs decals removing as not to my liking, frame needs a good clean. Bolt head rounded off on rearsets. Seems Ducati fixings are not made of sturdy stuff, but more the cheese variety. Grinder services to be employed at some stage
I am waiting on Ducati ordering up/getting in a new head gasket, exhaust gaskets and some bolts (which incidentally are all significantly cheaper than pattern offerings on ebay and other sites. OE Ducati it is then. Luckily Ducati is pretty close by). So whilst waiting i initiated some cleaning. As previously mentioned the whole bike was covered in oil and subsequently dirt, which the oil is like a magnet to. Stripped the whole frame and front end down to component parts and degreased and washed the frame, forks, discs, both wheels, calipers (fr and rr). I then stripped down the swingarm and removed the shock and cleaned all those parts. I cleaned the hub and all its components and regreased and reassembled. Bearings all clean and good, so just a regrease. I found some Ti bolts from a previous project to replace the slightly corroded oe brake caliper bolts. No-one will ever notice, but hey ho. I also removed the tyres off the rims as they were soaked in oil and i wouldn't trust them. I have ordered some race scrubs (i used them for years on my GSXR and love them) Whilst looking at the wheels i noted the front wheel bearings are seized, both. Weird. Obviously I'll replace the bearings (SKF replacements) I sanded and painted the rear of the swingarm where the stones kick up, as it looked a bit scruffy. So now i have a pile of clean parts awaiting a rebuild. I am going to wait until the engine is ready as its a lot easier to drop the frame over the engine when its just the frame with nothing hanging off it. I'lll work through the rest of the parts and clean them all up too whilst waiting. I will also start cleaning and repairing the plastics. Managed to get an almost brand new OE front brake lever for a bargain as someone had swapped to ASV levers
It's very satisfying, but I am anxiously looking forward to hearing the bike running... at least its all worthwhile then! Once the head gasket turns up I can get going again at pace on the important part of the rebuild
Started cleaning up the radiator last night. Minor corrosion on leading edges of side tanks. Scraped off the loose and then sanded down. Need some etching primer before final paint. Had an R&G cover fitted which given the condition i think i will refit. Also think the old link pipe has been dinged. What do you think. It reminds me of the old Micron Serpent pipes, well, sort of:
Watching with interest. I’m thinking about getting an 848 in a year or two and I’m beginning my research now. Might get a minter, might get a fixer upper so it’s good to see someone tackling a restoration.
The intent is to get the mechanics good so it can be trusted. I'm not too worried about aesthetics as i want to track it, tour it, use in all weathers and not be too precious with it. On that note. Glued and hot stapled the top fairing back into one piece and to be fair it feels pretty strong. Need to refix the headlight stud back onto the fairing and she should be good to live again. I'll v out the front of the crack, plastic weld, fill and paint. Side panels are both good. Just ran the polishing mop over the tank and that's come up OK (other than the scuff. Which takes out the I of Ducat. ) hey ho, battle scar. The seat unit could be a bigger challenge... but never say never...should live to see another day, albeit with one eye
