No, everything put back the way it came off. The only thing I have not reinstalled yet are the large circlips. I don't just mean hard to turn, it would not budge at the torques setting suggested. I admit it's an odd one. I even undid it all to check the wheel was properly aligned and in place, lowered the settings repeatedly till the wheel turned at 100nm. Unless I am missing something vital in the methodology I can't see where something so simple is going titts up, it's not like I have not done it dozens of times before on other bikes. Shooting off at a tangent...I was not happy with the state of the chain, even after cleaning it in turps, wire brushing it on the whirly-wheel, metal polishing most of it, it didn't come up like it should have, on closer examination there is evident corrosion pitting on many of the links, the large axle nuts, the sprocket (fucking rust FFS!) and the sprocket carrier nuts. It seems that the previous owner neglected his basic maintenance after riding on a salty road. I find it a bit off that it was not rectified by the dealer from whom I bought it, for a decent bloody price. This leads me to suspect that if all the final drive components were in such a state perhaps the bearings are on their way out in which case I would be seriously pissed. Ya just can't trust anybody these days. At the end of the day its more of an embuggerance than a serious issue as its' all going to be changed in the winter for some nice anodised parts; but it makes you think what else might be sub standard. I shall have another go at it when the replacements, for the replacement chain link arrives! The idiots sent me the wrong ones...it even said 848 on the feckin' order; its not rocket science, ya just cannae get the help these days!
On your picture it does not look like the axle part of the hub has come fully home. There should be threads showing after the nut is on, and you should be able to see the holes for the lock clip through the nut castellations. What Andy said re your chain. WTF?!
Awaiting new, new replacement link. I will check your suggestion when they arrive. If in doubt, strip it out and do it all over again; Ohh hochey cokey cokey!
I'll check that as well to be sure but I don't see how they could be as it was all done on the bench. as you tighten the nuts it pulls them in. If they were proud I would have noticed. But everything will be double checked and I will report back.
The wheel nut only retains the wheel. The nut on the chain side holds the shaft onto the bearings and retains the sprocket and cover. Do you have a gap between the cush and eccentric? Did you put the washer/spacer on in the correct order?
Personally, I would not ride it until you can correctly torque the nuts to the specified torque and the rear wheel spins as normal. It appears that tightening to the correct torque, like you say, allows the nut to tighten and apply compression against something which actually locks the wheel. Loosening the nut to 100Nm releases the compression sufficiently to allow the wheel to turn - this is perplexing and should not happen.
I still think it’s the brake calliper been fitted in wrong side of the bracket. If this was the case and the nut was tightened to correct torque, could this be pulling the pad onto the disc, effectively locking the wheel Stick a pic up of the brake calliper from underneath showing the bracket and I will shut up. If the previous owner had done this (wrong side of bracket) that would possibly explain why the nut was so loose. It’s the picture showing the nut in the stub axle with no thread past the nut that is making me think this.
Problem solved. Just had another crack at it and disassembled everything; seem I put the conical spacer in back to front so it was clamping the whole thing tight - Ockham's razor in action.
Looking at the pic of your sprocket side, the nut appears to go into a chamfered/countersunk recess. On my M1100, the nut flange is in line with the plane of the boss on the cush drive retaining plate. I'd expect your 848 to be similar.
