I think the resistors are for the after market LED indicators that were attached to the previous headlight unit. Just read that upgraded indicators using LED's can cause fast flashing and/or faults. Yeah, I'm just going to take every bit of tape, shrouding etc. off it and see what goes to where. I'm then going to get my seat unit sorted and get the components on, then wire it. Just had a look at those AMP connectors - they look good and are a fair bit cheaper than the weather pack - Cheers.
no worries stew Amp super seal are really prolific connectors and are widespread OEM use. for higher amperage stuff they do a monster size as well, but you shouldn't need that. Check these fellas out: Simtek (UK) - For All Your Automotive Connectors
( I don't even know how the bike was started in the past as I have an old photo of it before it was stripped down and it didn't have the right hand starter control unit fitted. One step at a time . . . .) small white push button could that be a hidden starter switch
That had crossed my mind Johnboy, I'll just have to follow it when I get the chance. I've got a feeling there's a lot more to uncover, I opened the 30A charging circuit fuse box and a small pile of scaly corrosion fell out!
Hi Stew, give these guys a go for the AMP stuff and cables. Cable, connectors and wiring parts for car, motorcycle and boat. Being an electronics guy, I agree with Baldyboy, split the loom down into individual circuits first then build up the loom. The resistors will be to mimic the resistance of the filament bulbs. Older flasher units work by heating a bi-metal strip that breaks then cools and makes the circuit. If you reduce the current draw with LEDs then the flasher won't flash at all or very slowly.
After festivities, the uni course workload ramping up and a bit of GSXR fettling I finally got the chance of a couple of hours at the bike. Main task has been stripping the loom of (grotty) insulating tape and starting to cross reference the wiring to the Haynes schematic to try and make sense of all the modifications/changes that have been made. The switch under the battery holder I mentioned in an earlier post is indeed a hidden starter button and I think I'm going to keep it. There seemed to quite a bit of moisture in and about things so I've attempted to totally dry it out. Got the starter solenoid wired up. Checked the condition of the general relay and it doesn't look good; So I'll replace it, as well as the turn signal relay while I'm at it. (I noticed that the relay bases say 'VOLVO' on them - I'm going to guess that this isn't standard?!). I've also got an oil pressure switch and also a neutral switch on the way from ebay. I'm currently looking at headlights in the size region of 7" as I don't think the current small unit looks right and also an LED tail light unit that incorporates turn signal LEDs although I'll have to be careful of how it will fit around the new seat unit when it's made. One bit at a time . . . .
Over a month since my last update! And it's not through lack of trying - the motivation is still there but the bloody time isn't!! Between the 7th Jan and now I have; Replaced the neutral and oil pressure switches, routed the choke and throttle cables, fitted a new fuel filter, replaced the charging circuit fuse, bought new grips, self amalgamating taped up parts of the loom, soldered up the digi speedo wires, fitted a flasher relay suitable for LED indicators in an attempt to get rid of the resistors, fitted a new general relay, ordered up and had delivery of all the required materials for making the seat unit with the old man (except a couple of sheets of Formica) and bought and fitted a new 7" headlight and fork mounted brackets. Trying to get a day sorted for starting on the seat ASAP! New headlight/brackets (apologies for the somewhat shoddy photo); Cheers
I bought those headlamp brackets, I was surprised how good they were. I mounted mine right down to the bottom yoke for a better look, Although my Acewell unit will be going in front and level-ish with the top yoke. Yorkie
Yorkie I was the same - was looking about on different sites for ages deciding on what mount to get as I was wanting something with a frame type look rather than the plates. But in the budget nature of the build I ended up getting these and was quite surprised at the product for £26 odd. Does the job!
Stew, I'm trying to keep to about £1000 all in, slightly over at the moment but I still have bits and pieces to sell. Good luck with the build. Yorkie
Cheers Yorkie. I didn't start with a budget cap, just a general mindset of keeping the cost low. As I've never done anything like this before it's more of a learning exercise, that will hopefully end with an entertaining wee bike that serves as an alternative to the GSXR. Same to yourself - all the best with yours!
My first tear down/rebuild as well, really enjoying it but couldn't do it without Mark at MADASL. (Top bloke) Yorkie
After seeing them on your bike at Marks i think i'm going to go for something similar myself, they look great for the price
Yesterday, I set out to get the seat unit well and truly under way. I cut up some old kitchen unit sides to construct a mould, with the idea that I would 'cast' my seat base in hard polyurethane foam, hollow out the bottom, fit it on the bike then masterfully and artfully craft a shape that Walt Seigl would be proud off. Step 1 - Make mould; Step 2 - Fill mould with 2 part polyurethane foam; Step 3 - Wait for foam to harden; Step 4 - Remove casting from mould (carefully); Step 5 - Hollow out bottom and fit to bike; Step 6 - Shape (Pad saw for rough shape, sanding block/paper once the bulk of the excess is removed); Step 7 - Completely and utterly f*ck it up and say many swear words for a long time. Step 8 - Order new foam on the net and wait until it's delivered so you can repeat the entire process. I think in order to get the shape I want, I'm going to have to remove a small plate on the rear subframe, but more thought will be put into this before attempt #2. So close yet so far . . . . .
That's how I did my rear seat unit but I glued foam wall insulation together and shaped that. It took four weeks of cutting and shaping.
Cheers nuttynick! Phillipo - that thing is a beast! When shaping, did you have any issues with where the glue joined the different sections together? Due to not knowing how much to use, I ended up pouring into the mould 3 separate times, and even though there was nothing between the sections, it created a series of 'lines' throughout the volume that proved awkward to sand down at the same rate as the rest of the foam. Going for an all in one approach next time.
