Finally Started the strip down this week, had a another visit to the shed this afternoon and so far no hassle with any nuts/bolts as I've been spraying them with gt85 for last few weeks,
Had a read up on the best way to remove the two super Tight ignition bolts, bent all the bolts i used. The strip down is getting there,
After a bit of advice, Just taking the clips off for powder coating and took the top yoke off then went to put back on and can see its not lined up the steering stem correctly, I would try loosening the lower yoke pinch bolts and drop the forks a bit then fit top yoke and slide the forks back up to check all ok, the engine is still in the frame waiting to come out, have others found the same issue with the top yoke/stem or should it fit correctly without adjusting the forks/pinch bolts.
I can't see that being an issue, in the workshop manual you assemble everything then tighten up. If it assembles correctly loosely then I suspect all is ok.
Thanks Royal I haven't anything set up to support/lift the frame to drop the engine yet otherwise i would loosen the front end up to check but wanted to ask the question first.
have to agree with Royal, in my experience the weight of the forks is the main culprit. Keep up the good work.
Been busy spending 4 hours cleaning both looms and dropped the clip ons and front fairing bracket into the powder coaters, Im very happy with the way they came out.
Only bit i found that needs attention is one headlight wire. I take it there should be a three wire block connector which plugs into the headlight bulb and not three separate wires. White wire has corrosion/burnt and is hard for about an inch and you can see the burnt tang on the bulb, i assume best option is to cut this out and wire in a new section.
maybe this sort of thing? SSC029 - Ceramic H4 Headlight Connector Repair Loom and Plug [ALM Part Reference - SSC029] - £1.86 : ALM Solutions, Auto Electrical Parts and Accessories for Cars, Boats, Caravans and Campers
had as similar issue with the head light wiring resistance build up in old wires was one cause for the overheating adding an extra earth from the head light wiring helps a lot would also check the wiring connections through out the loom went a bit further with mine wiring in a real for the headlight to bypass the old wiring for the main load made a lot of difference went from dull candle light to super bright which is a bonus on a ss ie slated for really bad headlight but main issue is the wiring is only just capable when new then 20 years of resistance build in the wires flows enough voltage to power the side light
I did have a look on the internet to see if anyone made copies of the looms with better wiring as i already had the looms of the bike but couldn't find anyone who did.
if I remember correctly with a fully charged battery and engine running battery showing around 13-14 volts I had just over 11 volts at the head light on the ie model all voltage and earth goes through a multi pin connector and no auxiliary earths on the front loom for the headlight and instrument cluster etc where if I remember right the carry has extra earths on the front section of loom when at the point of being able to check I would check what voltage you have at the headlight it might just have been a bad earth or corroded conector or even the possibility of a wrong bulb putting a higher wattage inlace to make life a little brighter and the wires not coping with the extra load
Nearly all stripped, Im surprised how light the swinger is, after reading Nasher's thread thought it would be a good time to fit a pair of bobbins.
Finally after waiting for a 14mm hex socket from eBay for the front wheel spindle so i could loosen it all up to check the top yoke lined up ok which it did, Steering bearing's seem in reusable condition also looks like a bit of water has got in there. So today was frame/front end off, The engine will be put to one side for a while then the next job will be bobbins welded to the swinging arm and then strengthen the frame headstock before powder coating.
Roadtrip I can see the original earth cable on the engine, are you going for the Exact Start cable upgrade. Cheers Gaz
It is also reasonably easy to purchase 25mm2 cable and make your own if you want to keep the expense down.
