Been reading a few threads on them and seems best to up grade them will use Exact or as Royal mentions possibly make them, have you got a set on your SS
Does Exige still make these for the 748 / 998 series too ? I cannot seem to find the forum links for the deal. He seems to be a guest so I cannot PM him. I can find the 749 / 999 ones. But not the earlier versions
He is no longer on here, his ebay link. Exact Start Ltd trading Ducati.TecheBayhttps://www.ebay.co.uk › exactukofficialccwukdistributor
Yes I got a set, but you can always make them as suggested. I did not know what the original cable where like but I have had no problems with these and has always started well. If you do just check your year as the there is a set for pre & post 93 model where the positive terminal is on the opposite side of the bike. Just type in google "Exact Start" it bring up a ducati.tech web site. There is a dicount available somewhere maybe just message him. Just looking, I left the rear earth on to the frame to engine and added the new cable up the battery -ve. The cable was abit long but just double in back and it fitted OK. I ran the starter model cable under the bike and up to the back of the starter solenoid which kept it neat and not running over the top of belt cover. Will put some pics up when phone is charged up. I put a smaller set screw through the casing hole so I could clamp the original lead then clamped the new cable on top of that, it just seemed to fit better like that. Engine casing to -ve battery Connection to back of solenoid 1 from +ve battery (on left of bike) 1 from starter motor Starter to solenoid It needs a clean under there. Cheers Gaz
I'm building a 900 carbed Monster and have an exact start set to match but the motor I have is from an IE bike so the rear earth point is M8 and not M6. Whilst I'm waiting for the screw in converter to arrive (essentially threaded insert) I'm looking at the rest of the install. The instructions that came with the kit state that you can fit the new cables in addition to the existing ones or instead of - which option did you go for? Also when I purchased the kit I didnt realise that the cable to the starter motor is red which sticks out like a sore thumb on the Monster...
Agree about the red cable on an un faired bike, there is a thread on the forum about another kit that’s all black but I think the kits imported from USA
Notts, I replaced the cables, but as per photos I did keep the rear earth from engine to frame. I can't remember what size thread it was but used a size smaller as shown in pictures above (I will try and get a better picture) Regarding red cable, I have seen some people use black heat shrink to change the colour. Cheers Gaz
Yes I think that I may have to look into doing the same as I've already purchased some Hypermotard oil lines to tidy up the rh side of the engine so the red cable now looks hideous. Ben
Oh btw mine arrived ok.. Was a bit of a pig to fit as it took me a while to find a routing I was happy with, and the insulating boots are as tough as old leather. I should have warmed them I suppose. But it's on. And WOW what a difference. The starter actually feels like it's over-running it starts within what feels like a fraction of a second after the button is pressed, you have to let it go quickly now ! No crank, just bang and it's running.. Transformed
Bit better photo, I but the nut inbetween the terminals because they did not sit right together. Screw is m6 in m8 hole. Cheers Gaz
Whilst waiting for the swinger to have a bit of welding done i thought next job would be remove all the wheel/sprocket bearings and disc bolts, i found heat was the answer for everything, disc bolts impact driver was perfect. Not sure what the previous owner used on the sprocket bolts.
Great thread. I know more expense, but would look at changing the rear 37T to 40-41T (have a search). I will be honest I changed mine to a 40T and never tried to 37T, but feel this is just about OK at low speeds. Cheers Gaz
Thought i would set to getting the bits plated, i used a rust remover i saw on youtube which has good results and to stop them rust flashing sprayed a bit of wd40. Very pleased with the final result.
Picked up the swinger today after having repairs done to it from a previous owner not spacing the aftermarket cans properly and had a pair of bobbins welded on and also dropped the frame off for welding around the headstock I don’t have any cracks but whilst its bare seems a very good idea to get it done,
One thing I’ve never seen before inside a headstock is foil stickers over the end of the frame tubes.
Curious if you are going to try for a factory finish for the swingarm? - When I restored mine, I found the clear anodizing hard to replicate unless you get a professional to do it, and the bare metal didn't look OEM. I ended up leaving it just cleaned with the odd ding here and there.
I will see what colour matches the powder coaters have but will try a bit of Scottish brite first but don't hold out much hope of getting an oem look.
Once upon a time, I had my swingarm polished!! I didn't protect!! I used Scottish bright to clean it up and then several layers of expensive wax to protect it.
