There are 2 heavy terminals and one small one Sev, which goes to the ignition....if you connect to the BATTERY side rather than to the lead that goes straight to the starter you can use the starter switch, if you connect to the other side it will spin over without your input.......
now here's a thing, I went out at lunch time and guess what?, started first time. So now I'm wondering if heat soak is affecting any of the components and if so, why. Whichever way, the battery is going to be replaced as it was bought over four years ago and in that time has sat idle for over a year before going on a charger (dubious draper job). I'm looking at an odyssey battery - not worried about saving weight just want big hairy kranken current!, and a ctek charger, possibly might renew the solenoid as well as it closes the loop for all but the starter motor. Either way, its sitting on a charger/conditioner now so I'll see when I get out later.
Now that's interesting, and I really appreciate your input and thoguhts - I wish you guys had been here when I was building this all those years ago! The brake is a 19x20, and the new Carbon Lorraine pads are now bedding in so each braking is feeling more and more progressive, I've never been a 'fist full of brakes' kind of rider. however, the clutch is also a 19x20! and that explains a hell of a lot, and it's a total dog in traffic bugger! So, time to go new master clutch master hunting, unless somebody fancies a nice swap out. The shakedown rework list is growing by the day.
This isn't going to flood the engine as all you're doing is opening and closing the valve. There's no fuel being sucked through if the engine is not turning over
Thats not the case with FCR carbs as these puppies have accelerator pumps which squirt neat fuel in to the inlets. See the list of mods at the start of the thread
Ah, I stand corrected. I never knew that. So does it squirt momentarily when the throttle is pumped/twisted? Surely it's not constantly squirting while the throttle is held open, otherwise fuel will pool behind the closed inlet valve (albeit not very much) on 3 of the 4 stokes when you don't want fuel. Or am I putting 2 and 2 together and coming up with 37 ? Also, if pumping the throttle helps, doesn't the inlet valve need to be open on at least one cylinder on the stationary engine, to get the fuel into the cylinder? What if the engine had stopped with both inlet valves closed? Or does it not matter? Maybe it's just a way of dumping some fuel into the inlet, closed or otherwise, before you hit the starter? Now I'm thinking out loud with my fingers...I feel a bit of googling coming on..
Carbs have what is called an accelerator pump which provides an increased amount fuel when the throttle is opened wide. When the butterflies are closed there is an idle circuit which provides sufficient fuel/air mixture to keep the motor ticking over. Duke
Gorgeous Bike Sev. I too have one of the beauties however it is currently with Geoff down at Baines for rectification of an oil leak which I got sick of trying to trace, very very long drawn out story. I love the SS its somehow much more of a true riding experience compared to the Water cooled jobbies. (got a couple of them as well). I will NEVER get rid of the old SS
Fantastic write up Sev and beautiful job. Bought my '93 900SS in 1996 and 16 years on have still only managed 3,500 miles in total but bog standard except for Oberon clutch slave, Mikuni 40mm flat slides (TDMRs) and BT016s.
Well the shake down is well and truly done. Having put 100 miles on the bike, and just getting used to riding again I did a few small mods and tweaks. The best thing is that it starts first time now that i'vebeen properly educated in FCR-jutsu. This was the size difference between the oem and the uprated starter motor cables: Unfortunately the corsa radial master cylinders fouled my clocks and broke the mounting spigots off bugger. I repaired with a rivnut and a 15mm spacer. what this meant was also the added bonus of being able to just use a long bolt from underneath. As they say in Wales... Tidy. I then prototyped (technical speak for bodged) a variable length brake pedal arm, just to see what worked for me. When I was happy I finalised the design. Toe spigots curtesy of SES racing. I also finally junked the reverse shift lever, and made a normal shift lever. It caught me out one too many times! The brembo racing radial masters were replaced with a set of Monster 1100 set I saw on ebay which were brand new. The lovely thing was that the sum I got for my Brembo racing items paid for them outright and also paid for half an oberon clutch slave cylinder. I actually thought the clutch wouldn't bleed and I'd been sold a duffer as the pull was so light! I measured the pull on the 19x20 clutch master cylinder at 25kg! So I got rid of these: and replaced with these: The cambered design also means I now have full lock again. One question though, what is the microswitch under the clutch?
One thing that always never sat well with me was untidy hydraulics. I had two hoses which didn't sit parallel to each other, and I didn't like the imperial fitting on the Goodrich banjo bolts. Also the leads on the Earls and goodrich banjos were too long even with thicker earls copper washers. So I went back to the ducati oe ones. I cleaned them all up and they even had a convenient spacer to make my hoses look tidy again! The ones in the bottom row of the photo shows the size comparisons between the ducati items and also the state they were in! You can see the threaded leads are a lot shorter on the oe items, and the nut is a metric size instead of an imperial. See how the two sit nicely over and under by use of the little spacer. Much tidier and looking more intended for purpose. And so thats where I am at the moment. The only thing remaining is to replace the stock plugs for the cooler plugs which Baines originally installed after the tune. I've got a bag full of LEMO and Milspec deutsche connectors and a couple of rolls of spec 55A, but that's for a later project when I get the rest sorted and tidy - and that includes my confidence and riding again!
Nice job, tidy! The microswitch is so that you can only start the motor in gear if the clutch is pulled in.
Right, although I've posted this on the SS forums I thought I'd add it for completeness sake. I'm in time looking to replace my veglia clocks with electronic items - now if I did want an panel display, I'd go for a Rece Technologies Dash 2 as it has everything I need. I'd love a stack system dash but they are rocking horse shit to get for proper money (read sensible!) and I don't want dataloggers etc. So, clocks it is, but taking digital signal rather than cables etc. The bike is already wearing an Elliot electronic rev counter, and the veglia oil temp gauge although pointless is also electronic. Now this current phase started when I studied the wiring behind the clocks I thought what a shower of shit! I've got nothing against bullet and spade connectors, as they do have their place, but I do get farked orf when they've been bodged on a la Halfords! Where the wire had been spliced into the coil for the rev counter signal I found a mess done by a grand master of bodgitsu. So... me, some new connectors and some proper crimpers and new wire were going to put things right. The loom section's brief was simple, take signals reliably to the clocks, no breaks for reliability and also contingency loom for the speedo that might appear one day. After Imola confirmed some wiring size queries I had I set to work. I remade the loom from the Elliot electronic rev counter and the original veglia temp gauge. The earths all go to the comon earth on the frame and the comms wires are all continuous. The pulse take off for the tacho has been spliced neatly into the coil wiring and I also took the opportunity to put a final loom section for a speedometer and ample wiring for the wheel speed sensor. Power comes from a piggy back connector on the horn, but again there's enough length to swing round to the fuse box or main relay if necessary. Given that the loom was spliced into the cdi and coil wire loom it made sense to use some loom tape and bind them up as one entity.
Looks really neat Sev I have similar intentions for my '95 SS and although someone had already stuck an uprated earth strap on it, looking at yours and sim900SL's bikes, I can see there is a need for me to brush up on wiring and crimping skills as well as taking a trip round the bike to sort all the fasteners. Really liking the new master cylinders too, very neat :wink:
Thanks John There's nothing inherently wrong with the loom itself, but its easy to forget that these bikes like any old vehicle is the age it is- a credit to our tlc really. The loom is made in sub assembly sections so that it could run down a production line, and also the connectors themselves have come on a bit. Prime example is that HUUUUGE connector that links the front harness to the main body harness - you think that now that connector would be replaced with a sealed packard connector or deutsche dtm connector. My next mission will be hopefully to remake the loom with the intention of removing a lot of the breaks which were necessary for the production line assembly. The intention is that when I do it, i'll not only stick it on here but also upload all the relevant build schematics with lengths etc. That's the idea anyway, I'd rather try and keep splicing to a minimum. The first thing I did, and I hope Sim900SL will back me up is clean all your earths, and upgrade the starter cables. You'll notice the difference right away. a the engine and moving it from behind the footpeg mounting to the common ground on the frame as your battery negative links straight to it. I'm sure that's what Sim did as well. a good place to start is somewhere like iem services , simtek, both are pretty good for ringing up for advice if nothing else. Oh and I can't stress enough a good set of crimpers and a decent stripping tool- especially if you're going to mess around with superseal connectors.
