Oh yeah....I forgot about those two.......dammit.... Done front brake calipers: done rear brake caliper (and added an R-clip to the pad retaining pin); done filter: done sump plug and screen filter; done side stand nut thingy - (work it out for yourselves);done stand mounting bracket......... Out comes my 1.00mm drill again......bugger, bugger, bugger............
When I was doing cars, I also used to clean up inlet tracts, ports and exhaust ports......the trouble is, some are so rough cast, by removing the roughness, you aren't only polishing to assist the gas flow, sometimes too much metal is removed to make things smooth, thus the tracts and ports can become enlarged, thus buggering up gas flow.......
Sev's right though. If my experience is anything to go by, with new pistons you do need to check compression ratio - I fiitted JE's, and although it said 11:1 on the box, actual measured CR was over 13:1 ( pistons now machined down to give 11.2:1) . If you've cc'd the combustion chamber, it's easy enough to work out how much metal to remove, if you need/want to. Sent from my P01M using Tapatalk
Ok, ok, now youve got me thinking, The heads are getting rebuilt soon, once they've been blasted and painted. I will then ask how to check these figures.
Yep.......but having spent a few years working with Clive Trickey, some things remain...... Did he use a ball-pene hammer?
Installed those pesky swingarm bearings and seals today. Best method I have found after destroying some by using brute force (£5 each!), is using the drawbolt method. Simple threaded rod larger than the casings I turned down some nylon to sit in the bearing with the rod through the middle, therefore keeping the bolt somewhat central, then a few washers one end. At the business end I found that a Halfrauds 19mm socket fits extremely well into the hole. I line up each part and applied a little lubricant to get it started, putting a mallet against it and hitting the side of the mallet, which kept it quite square. Once it was in then I got the draw bolt on to pull it through into place. Did them one at a time as made a mess previously trying to do bearings at once.
Don't assemble any of it for a few days or more.......anything you bolt to it and / or the bolt heads will tear up the new paint...... .....Grandma and eggs, I guess......
I know the Engine Enamel is a high heat paint and will harden more when heated - but I'm not sure if it has to be heated all in one go....... ....I'm also not sure if the primer is high heat - have a quick read of the tin before you get too happy. They also do a really good VHT according to a mate who has an orange 4 into 1 zorst on a Kawasaki.
Primer is etch, not high temp but should be ok, that particular engine enamel doesn't require curing. I have some flame proof VHT I may use on heads.
