Hehe some sound advice. I don't think I need to do anything more to the bike TBH the first owner has done everything over the 12 years he owned and looked after it: Later P4 calipers Cast Iron fully floating disks Carbon air tubes and box carbon undertray and tail tidy Pazzo leavers polished system with Termi's open clutch cover ducati performance pressure plate and springs/caps Corse rear sets I would like to switch it to race shift, how do you do that? It doesn't look like you can just flip the selector arm. I managed to get out for a little ride on the weekend and kept stalling because I was shift into 2nd instead of 1st to pull away (numpty) 3years of race shift on my other bike means the transition back to road is tricky.
Sounds about good, though never been a fan of polished pipes. I prefer those with a bit of patina from use. Race shift is dead easy, you get a lever that fits directly to the gear change shaft. They are widely available, It gives a bit more of a positive feeling when changing.
Look at this bike ... makes me want to puke.... That's what I am on about If you want to tune up a duc, you need to go RS. That's the only way that looks good. However it is a very expensive route because RS parts do not mix with road part. Every single bit you change, you need to change another, and another, and another, etc....
And dont I know it. Would have been better buying an RS. And cheaper in the long run. But as long as the OP likes his bike as it is, or will be, then alls good
lovley bike, but they can be a a pain to start one things that my 998s does (not sure if its same on 996) is that if you dont hit the starter within 10 seconds of turning the ignition on, the ecu goes into a power save/sleep mode. so no matter how many times you turn it over it wont fire up until you turn the ignition off and on again found this out the hard way when i first got mine and killed the battery as others have said decent quality battery that is kept on charge all the time the bike is not in use (if possible) will see you right make sure you keep the terminals as clean as poss to ensure max current throughput some ppl have installed improved the HT leads (like these ) as the OEM ones are bit small for the loads and lose their condutivity over time this will help prelong the life of the starter sprag. cranking to over and over without it starting can wear this out and its expensive to repair
Glad i am not the only one! i am pretty much there with everything now though not taking the plunge with RS frame and RS engine, just SPS tuned with RS parts. I want the bike usable on the road and insurable.
Sweet ordered myself a gear change lever today....no more 2nd get pull away clangers. Is it worth getting a power commander? I though the fueling was pretty good actually.
Starting....No choke or throttle...catch on the choke just as it fires, 3 goes and you're out!! Well mine was always like that in the winter...not much better in the summer
Dunno where you live, but take it to CJS for a full mapping...thats the answer as the dyno above shows
Full mapping not easy on a P8. You need somebody who can program eproms. That's old school that. Now with the 5.9 or 5am and Ducati Diag you have an inexpensive tuning solution which does not need any PWC. So on old electronics, the PWC can make sense if you want to fine tune your map. Especially if you do any tuning job, bigger exhaust, new injection, higher pressure fuel pump, etc. If you stay standard, you have plenty of chips for say a 50mm system that will have pretty decent fuelling as is. Luigi probably has quite a few available. Quite a lot cheaper too. A chip is probably £50. A pwc is more like £250 + a map is about £300
I would like to get a full system was it 54mm or 57mm they did? It appears they are A) like hen's teeth and B) you don't see many for sale
Later models RS had 57mm. I think that some factory bikes may even have had 60mm in late years. 54mm was probably the size around 1997/1998. Any of those in good condition now fetches big money. But do consider that this only works with the whole chain upgraded. Airbox, injection, gasflow, bigger valves, high comp pistons, ECU or piggy back with mapping. Unless you do all this you won't gain any power. In fact lose a bit for loss of back pressure. I remember so guy testing back to back configurations on a 916 and he had less power with a 50mm than a 45mm. As for the noise argument, the bigger/longer RS pipes are in fact a little quieter.
Got myself a shift lever, just need to fit it now. Will need to find a short bolt for the rear sets when I loose the road shift setup I will loose the lower bolt mounting them to the bike.
