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998 998 Brakes

Discussion in '748 / 916 / 996 / 998' started by JoeC, Jul 15, 2014.

  1. If the cuddly toy has had it orifices steam cleaned, you may find some interest.
     
  2. My P4/34's came from a KTM and are Gold but I have no idea what model it was and whether that was the stock colour they normally are, I paid about £150 but that was some time ago. Prices have fluctuated since then but they are still cheaper than when they were popular as a Ducati upgrade and monoblocs were less common.
     
    #22 Red998, Jul 16, 2014
    Last edited: Jul 16, 2014
  3. If I could bring myself to sell all my OEM parts from either bike I might be better off. But I cannot. I have everything needed to restore both to OEM. Wheels, brakes, subframes, airboxes, forks, etc. even old nuts and bolts. Everything.
     
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  4. Yeah ive done exactly the same for my bike Bootsam as I keep thinking its better to put them back to bog standard spec if I ever come to sell it.

    Sorry for the confusion Red998 its the KTM monoblocs in black I like the look of compared to the grey ones on ducatis 1098/1198 etc.

    I was amazed at the difference the P4/34 calipers and brembo radial brake master cylinder made to my last 996BP and luckily the 916sps I have came with the caliper upgrade already from previous owner.Must be one of the cheapest mods for the money.Id guess to go radial brakes you can be looking at at least £800 - £1000 depending on cheaper 848 etc forks ,calipers ,front wheel or disks etc.For ohlins r&t hpk calipers and disks and some nice radial fork bottoms then price seems very steep.

    I wanted the Moto corse radial fork bottoms but ended up getting some mint ones off a 999R and carbon fibre fender to go with it.Im still unsure about fitting or flogging it as several people have said only a very slight improvement will be felt over the spec it is now.I cant really be arsed for bling factor only if a vast improvement.Lucky I got a few bits of the kit for a bargain.
     
  5. Mine,
    426.JPG
     
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  6. That ^ needs a 1098 in it...;)
     
  7. that need an 1198 in it......:Banghead:
     
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  8. Thanks for all the info guys. It all sounds like a bit of a ball ache plus a big spend, money which I'd probably be better off putting towards the 1098R that I currently have on order at JHP. That and slowing down a bit!
     
  9. Have you considered fitting a Brembo RCS master cylinder? Its not going to be as good as the expensive but lovely options above but it still offers a worthwhile improvement IMHO.
     
  10. Some Brembo radial master cylinders don't quite fit if you have stock handlebars as the handlebar switch can get in the way. This has been mentioned on here before, one poster mentioned that he had to file away the bleed nipple to get his to fit and when I tried to fit mine the stock handlebars were too short by a few millimetres.

    You might want to check this out before you buy one
     
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  11. howdy folks

    i ummed and arrhhed about this for front brake upgrade for 11 years! i have a 998s bought new in april 2002 with the 65mm calipers. over the years (and quite a few track days) i tried different pads, no better, then an 18mm radial brembo master cylinder and HEL twin lines........better.....but still a nagging presence that there was still an improvement to be made.

    i could not be bothered with the expense and sourcing hassle of Ohlins forks and caliper carriers, discs etc etc etc. my existing Showas had been internally upgraded at K-Tech..............so..........early this year I bought a set of bolt straight on Beringer Aerotec 6 pots in black with the same radial m/c. now your talking! £900 the pair though and well worth it if you are into serious stopping power.
     
  12. Yep i did find this out :D

    You can buy some longer bars from SES which help a lot. I also moved the handlebar switches to the other side of the brake m/c. Now works a treat and no one notices that the switch is the 'wrong' side of the brake lever.
     
  13. I have a Brembo RCS m/c on my SPS with standard bars - fits fine.
     
  14. Weird had no problems with fitting brembo radial m/c's to standard bars on my 996BP or current bike.Managed to get hold of a new billet brembo radial brake m/c for the second set that went on sps to match the billet clutch one .Only problem is brembo radial clutch mc just nips the corner of standard speedometer on full lock.

    Was planning on a A.I.M MXL digi dash but tired of paying for more upgrades now.I also considered the AP radial calipers as they were a very good price for pair at nec bike show.Until I found out the didn't have any road spec dust seals.

    Magura,AP and accosato do nice master cylinder upgrades also.

    RIMG0149.JPG

    RIMG0150.JPG
     
    #34 matt#corse, Jul 18, 2014
    Last edited: Jul 20, 2014
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  15. ^^^ There are two types of handlebar tubes fitted to Ducat's I found this out when I wanted to a radial cylinder to my bike I found that the switch hole and original master cylinder positions are slightly different if I wanted to fit them and the radial master cylinder in question. Which no doubt explains why some people have no problems fitting radial master cylinders and some do, there could even be a slight difference in length but I didn't have any others to compare them to. I found that I had what I think are the early bars and in that case they either don't fit or require modification, it certainly didn't work for me.

    The answer seems to be longer bars or modify the switches possibly by cutting off the location pegs on the underside of the switches if you have a set of bars where they don't fit.
     
  16. The location pegs should be cut off and the switches positioned for individual riders. Buy bike, cut pegs . get position right.
     
  17. The blled nipple is in a different position on a RCS to your m/c, Matt. Its right on the top and fouls the throttle cable routing IIRC.
     
  18. As I said earlier: I have Brembo RCS Brake M/Cyl on my 916SPS and it fits with no probs. It doesn't foul the throttle cable.
    The only fiddling I recall needing to do was to make sure the angle of the m/cyl was adjusted so that the banjo bolt (on the underside) did not bash into the fork leg. I have two individual lines to the calipers so it runs a duble banjo bolt set up.
     
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