Just checked and the Allen bolt torque is only 14NM Which is nothing ,so off to buy a torque wrench at the weekend. got my rear shock in bits to clean up now, hope I don't f##k that up as well
At last a tiny bit of progress on project 998 rear shock cleaned and rebuilt . My 2nd hand alloy 1098 clutch drum has arrived just waiting for the Suzuki gs650 plates to go in it so I can build up my £40 hybrid/bastard replacement clutch(ref the clutch parts thread) hope it all works if not its gonna be a big explosion of alloy The fork yoke I cracked is off for welding on Monday then I need some warmer temps so I can do a bit of small parts painting.
nelson did you get all the plates in on your clutch basket, with all plates and friction plates in clutch wouldnt work, so took 1 plate +1 friction out, now works fine, this is for the GS plates + corse ali basket, cheers kev
After quite a bit of eBay browsing at over priced replacement front disc Allen bolts I've just managed to get 12 stainless coated high tensile ones from my local bolt shop for... £2.20 ! Got 5 rear hub lock nuts for £1.90 whilst there to. No 6 week wait for delivery from china ,no silly £5 postage charges. space heater next week so I can paint the swinging arm then I can start putting bits back on
Sounds about right, I follow the stack order as per the haynes manual... I know I had one GS plate left as a spare...
Finally got my fork clamp welded up and it don't look too bad (ccracer ?) next step is a trip to Moto Italia for cam belts & oil filter then I might be able to start putting things back together. P.S anyone dropped a swinging arm out withe the engine front mounting bolt is still fitted ? I've heard the engine can be swung out the way to remove the swing arm ?
I thought the engine stays where it is, remove the engine s/arm pivot bolt, prise open the frame and drop the arm out.
Sounds good , I've never had one out before but had heard or read somewhere that the engine needs at least dropping at the back. Il let you know how it goes ....
As final edition says although I haven't done this myself, I am told that with the engine bolts loose and the swing arm bolt removed there should be enough spring in the frame to remove the arm. Steve
None of the above. give it a clean and leave it the lovley dull alloy colour it is. A carbon protector looks ok, but I do prefer the standard look.
I to would prefer the std look but sadly the previous owner thought he new best and sprayed it a random shiny metallic grey on one side ! So it's powder coating or one of the above & maybe a carbon cover if funds allow .
i wouldnt pry a frame open at all..........unless your happy with a random geometry........ support the engine underneath, take all the frame bolts out and lift the frame up at the rear to release the swing arm pivot bush....
I didn't have the balls to pry the frame apart or the time to remove the engine so the swinging arm will be painted whilst still fitted.On a plus side I've made some progress at the front end .
Another afternoon tinkering and a little bit more progress, the previous owner seems to have tried to paint the swinging arm (on the way home from the pub by the look of it ) and as mentioned before my balls aren't big enough to prize the the frame open to remove the arm & I have no time to remove the engine so...... not the most professional job but its an improvement for sure. while I was waiting for the primer to dry I decided to check the alternator nut torque as a few have said the early testa motors may have dodgy nuts (similar to the early 916 ect) the nut was fine but cleaned and thread locked for piece of mind
