Yes quite old this thread last post by the OP was July 2012, I take it he has sorted it by now lol. I'm new to it and just to throw a spanner in the works my 07 plate 749 must be broke, having read all the post I though that’s a good bit of kit "Auto start" so I went out and tried mine, pressed once and released nothing tried again nothing, would not start, so pressed and held it as normal for starters on older Bikes in the good old days, and it started OK, has anyone else checked on a later Bike ? or is mine broken ? Guvs
i will throw one in too. i had this intermittent non start issue with my fuggly 1100 it got progressively worse over a couple of years years until it finnaly gave up the ghost right in front of a competitors garage. no spark during cranking. it would spark turning the engine over by hand but not off the button. did every thing i could to substitute the electrical circuit no success. after a wee chat with one of the techs at D.G. fitted a new starter perfect ever since. it doesn't turn over any faster the old starter wasn't noisy so am at a bit of a loss to say why this would happen.
Hi all thanks for your help, I've done just about everything I can think of now to it but still have a problem where first thing in the morning it turns over but won,t fire up, but if I leave it a couple of minutes go back to the bike press the button and it fires up straight away so I think that will be my routine from now on 1/ go out to garage try to start her 2/ go indoors get my kit on 3/ start the bike 4/ go out and thrash the crap out of it ;-)
My 05 999 was a pain to start until I/we(with advice from Parkinsons M/cs) took a shim out from under the crank position sensor. Common problem. Ducati shimmed them with too bigger gap, ecu had trouble reading it. That, plus putting an extra earth cable from -ve battery to engine bolt makes starting and charging circuit better.
Hi Thanks for that I have run an extra earth from the starter motor to engine block, where abouts is the crank sensor?
DUCATI 1098 2008 848 1198 Engine Motor Crankshaft Crank Position Sensor Plug | eBay Crank sensor is RHS. The shim is the horseshoe shaped copper thing. You can't remove sensor, take out allen bolt, lift sensor and take out shim, replace sensor. Done.
Hi if that was a problem with the sensor spacing wouldn't it do it all the time and not just first thing, once I've started mine it starts ok I think it's just an Italian thing lol I suppose you have to put up with a thoroughbred,s tantrum,s ;-)
No, just starting, it was fine once running. Top tech at Parkinsons told me to do it and it sorted mine. Then I did the earth wire thing and it cranks faster and charge rate is up by about .2v.
Finn I wonder if it was because your original starter was knackered and drawing excessive current resulting in so much volt drop that there wasn't enough to fire the ignition?
How bizzare that this has be resurected. My 999 has never had a starting issue, I could leave it over winter then stick it on the optimate for few hours and it would fire within a few turns. This was the same this year but 2 weeks ago at Oulton Park it refused to start!! But did eventually. Anyways I went to start it today and it didnt want to know, it did start but only after coming back to ot 5 mins later and trying again. Battery was new summer 2011 Wired how its just started doing it without warning.
Battery 3 years old, left standing for months. I am unsurprised. The best thing you can do for a battery is ride the bike regularly.
To be honest i was not 100% convinced on the battery being at fault. I traced back what was different with the bike as per a few weeks ago when it was spot on with its starting. All I could think was I had the back box off for some welding and when reinstalling I had not put enough firegum to seal it back up, this was very obvious as you could see day light if you looked down the exhaust!!! Quick strip and reseal with lashing of firegum and the fooker starts 1st prod of the button without putting up a fight!!
Hey, not sure if people suggested it, but.... i've had a couple things causing the issue: 1. on the back of the engine case near the rear wheel there is a little plug that seems to go into the engine, you can pull this out. This is a neutral check cable. clean this out well from corosion, it is right near tyre so muck gets in there. if this does not connect well and the bike thinks it's not in neutral it will not start, even if you hold the clutch in. 2. the side stand has a cable going to it, again if that is not connecting correctly thinking it's down the bike might have a hard time starting, you can try disconnecting it and see what happens, as i believe if you disconnect it it thinks the stand is up. then if it starts fine you'll know that's the issue. 3. had similar issue recently, i'd press the button nothing happens... sometimes i'd press it, let go, wait about 10 seconds and then it starts on it's own... turns our my switch was going bad, it has a tiny bit of play room where i could move it to the right (starter switch) just a tiny bit and then press it and it would start right off. 4. lastly, i've heard of the kill switch going corroded. try harshley flicking it on and off a few times and then try the start button again. hope something helps.
Mine started playing up again. Ambient temp is erm cold. Showing 12.2v after not being ridden or on an optimate of 2 weeks turns over ok but wont fire. Whilst cranking it drops to 11.5. Stuck on Optimate for a few hours battery shows 12.7v yet still wont fire and after about the 3rd crank battery shows as LO. New a battery ordered and I have some 4 Gauge OFC battery cable so I will knock up a piggy back set of battery leads Anymore of this behaviour and I shall buy a Honda lol
it's a Ducati deal with it someone once said the italian bikes are like italian supermodels, they are better looking than anything else, but high maintenance
That looks like a Nero. You could have joined our Nero club, but the new forum seems to have killed it off. It only lasted about 3 days.
