Various options above and all have their merits. My 916 is 24 years old and done over 50k miles, I did have plug/connectors cook many years ago and I replaced it with a connector very similar to the original (because I had it available) and with a little regular maintenance, i.e. occasional clean and lube it's still going strong on the old-school 2 phase reg/rec in the original position. If it fails I'll fit a Mosfet and maybe one day I might swap it anyway but for now, if it ain't broke...
Thanks for replies Triumph T2500676 cable , I presume best option is to hard wire to the oe loom ? Coming in roughly 50 euro from Germany triumph.de Any guides on replacing the the oe loom wire , I keep reading it connects to the generator Does it matter what rectifier, triumph cable works with all? FH012AA rectifier FHO12CA FH020AA I am looking at a diavel rectifer on eBay, 2011 for 80 euro , new FH012AA from Germany , 200 euro Both have a metal back plate and the Fhxxx stamped in white print , considered expensive?
Just my tuppence Carlo, I’d never buy a 2nd hand rectifier, too much of an unknown quantity, I’d always buy new and from Electrexworld. Yes, they’re based in the UK (and manufacture there) but they’ll sell to you (in EU) on an ex vat basis do you don’t get hammered with double vat. As for retro fitting the Triumph leads etc just search in here, Robarano did a thread on it some years back on his 1098R.
Yup with you Chris. Went with the replacement eBay option when my original 1098 RR failed, when that one lasted a year, put a mosfet on, instant improvement, never had a problem after that.
Thanks, was going to buy from http://roadstercycle.com/ in the Usa , do the triumph cable and new rectifier Don't like buying secondhand parts myself especially with they are so expensive, will check that place out , could not find anywhere here selling new
Does anybody know what guage wire MOSFET or triumph cable use, what to get a suitable Tyco ip68 connector
I replaced the generator wires with heavier gauge and omitted the troublesome connector. Instead I ran the cables all the way to the new MOSFET. All you have to do then is extend the positive and negative battery cables and connect those to the MOSFET as well. No triumph adapter required. To change the generator wires you have to take the side cover off but from there it's doable. I had a piece of 3 core cooker cable that is the perfect diameter to fit snug through the hole in the engine cover. Thick rubber insulation. Just a smidgen of silicone on the inside so the oil has less chance to creep up into the insulation. Fitted some nice heat protection over the cable from the cover to the rectifier too. I did this about 7-8 years ago and it has stood up well. The old generator wires were corroded inside the insulation all the way to the stator.
If you buy from Electrexworld it will be plug & play, although looking back at your pictures, I think you need to also replace the yellow wires that come from the stator, maybe you can get away with cutting out the heat damaged bit around the connector and then soldering in a new length which would save having to remove the LHS crankcase cover. As for gauge I can't answer that. I'd probably go for a 3mm wire but it's the type of insulation that's important as well
I've changed to MOSFET on both my 916 S4 and my 996. Yamaha R1 on the 916 and a MTS1200 on the 996. Both using Triumph harness, easy plug and play job. My experience with Electrex was not good - the Reg ran hotter than the original in the 916 and actually went on fire.
Ordered mine from Jack in roadstercycle.com/ in California (New Triumph cable & New FH020AA) ; even if I get hit by Customs , worse case is the same price as a second hand 2011 unit off ebay and a new Triumph cable I will throw up some pics with the install , if cabling is ok (stator side) ; will leave as is Might use a tyco weather proof sealed connector for the yellow wires, or screw in connectors Need to do some digging , if they will support the amps
Agree re: Electrex, although not generalising as their ignition pickups last as well as the originals, but "ran into difficulties" when I replaced an O.E.M. unit on an Elefant because it was running hot - the Electrex equivalent was inferior electrically and ran hotter. No replacement or refund was offered so eventually resolved via supplier.
The reg on my 2003 749 started giving me voltage readings above 15v so I decided to replace it. Decided to go with a MOSFET one, I found online, as we were in COVID lockdown. Unfortunately the “plug and play” one I bought from RMSTATOR while beautiful, may well have been plug and play but not in the spot where the old one lived—it was 15mm or so too big. Considered returning it and ordering a factory OEM one but I had it, it was spring and I wanted to ride so I decided to relocate it. I found a spot on the right side where I could mount it. Build my self a cardboard template, cut a custom plate and mounted it using existing fastener points. The wiring took me a couple tries. I checked with the company and they told me the wiring was 14 gauge, but it looked thicker than the 14AWG I bought so I ended up using 12AWG. My first attempt didn’t go that well. Either the online waterproof connectors I bought couldn’t handle the 12AWG wire or I didn’t do a good job wiring it. The stator wire connection fried. I re did that connection using a 12AWG rated deutsch connector, which was a bit pricey but is working perfectly. Still need to change my reg to battery connection to a deutsch connector but it can wait now to end of season. Wish I didn’t need to relocate it, but I now get a steady 14.7v all day long. Hope some of this helps you with your wire gauge, MOSFET, and relocation decision(s).
I do get confused with this topic and the following is just what I understand... and I would be happy to be corrected. There are two types of reg/rec, series and shunt with the former varying a resistance that is in series and the latter 'shunting' the excess to ground. Both will produce heat with the shunt possibly the better of the two & afaik both can be controlled with MOSFET technology. The MOSFET switches more accurately and faster so will produce a little less heat. But if you are using a shunt type in the same situation where the wiring/earthing/cooling etc are still poor then it could still fail. I believe the Electrex world reg/rec are shunt types with MOSFET.
Far too technical for me, all I can say is that the OEM RR failed twice on my 1098, the mosfet ran noticeably cooler & never failed.
Took her for a test ride today after all the volt meter checks, 14.2 constant, 13.8 with lights on ; she ran good Q on the stator oe wiring , is it normal for it to be touching off the head oil lines , alot of heat getting passed into the wire
Just route it straight up, cable tie it to the CPS cable above then run it across between the cylinders although Anywhere it touches the engine it’s gonna get hot.