Just a quicky took my 15 dvt 9000 miles for service last week , and was loaned a 2017 having had a good run round I couldn't really feel any great difference in performance over the 15 in fact getting my bike back with up to date ecu upgrades and a one tooth down front sprocket as fitted previously felt exceptional so I shan't be rushing to change. Lastly I must commend Ducati Leeds for the fantastic service and a nice clean bike when it was returned.
I've got a 2016 DVT with full Termi. I've ordered the airbox mod bits (thanks steveb 123 for the list/diag). I'm still waiting for one part to arrive but I have seen the air box 'sound deadening cover' (part 34) and it's NOT foil coated. Dealer says that the 2017 bikes are foil covered, so probably supplied now as an 'upgrade' part? I though it was a heat shield, although sound deadener makes more sense as you'd expect a heat shield to be placed between the engine/air box. Anyhow, I'm expecting no extra power in any region other than at the top-end as this mod seems to relate to maximising air intake. However, a mechanic at my local dealership went to Italy for a training and he said there was mention of no noticeable improvement with this mod... I feel convinced of two things here; a) it'll only show at maximum air intake demand (so throttle pinned at high revs/speed) and b) why would Ducati redevelop the air box's intake and achieve no gain? Oh, and there haven't been any updates for the fuel mapping for the full Termi systems.
Have you noticed any other changes?[/QUOTE] I had the 2015 DVT and just spend 4 days doing a 1000 miles on my brand new 2017 DVT and have to say even though I was still running it in there is a marked improvement in mid range pick up, gunning it through the gears (after the first service) you will not notice much difference but at slower speeds in low gears or say 4th at 3000 revs the bike picks up a lot better than my previous one.
I shall be able to report in a few months when I do my next run. Mine used 200 ml in 3000 miles recently and I just had the airbox update done, but not ridden it yet.
My dealer did mine at the oil/filter service and changed the airfilter at the same time which is 2500 miles early but saves me the labour cost later. I removed the plastics. They did the service, ECU update, pannier mods, hot grips mod, adjusted chain all in 2 hours. The parts that I think are airbox related are: gasket £6.11+vat, cover £22.44 +vat, and airbox-tank gasket £12.21+vat.
I've had the air box upgrade and the ECU update on my 2016 DVT fitted by a dealer. Took it out for a test at the weekend and it felt good, no issues it seemed but I seem to have lost top end speed. Has any else had any issues or suggestions of what the problem may be, no dashboard warning lights. I may have to resort to swapping it back to rule out the air box mod.
Not sure, I’ve spoken with the main dealer and we are going to do a diagnostics check before stripping it down. Hopefully nothing sinister.
Ok so I when for it and swapped the air box cover back over to the standard 2016, took it for a test ride and still the same loss of power at high speed. So that rolled out any software upgrade or mapping issues. I had previously ruled out the exhaust valve as my Ducati main dealer and previously fitted the Heel-tech exhaust valve eliminator. However after pulling out software and file mapping though i'd check it. Bingo, after removing the exhaust muffler, I found the exhaust valve seized, almost closed but not quite. The Valve has now been freed up with a bit of WD40 and turned fully open. I was going to remove it but after checking the servo isn't active and the Heel-Tech eliminator is doing its job, so thought i'd leave it for now. I've posted some pictures below, if you did want to remove the valve paddle, simply position the paddle in the closed position, drill out the two holding screws and the paddle will fall off. The ECU will think its still there so the spindle will still turn, if not seized, and there's no need to mess about with any electronics. So just a quick note, even if you fit an exhaust valve eliminator the valve could still seize in the closed position.
If the valve had moved then it was never actually seized. Did you, per chance, fit the exhaust valve eliminator as a precaution before experiencing any issues with it? Was the cable still attached with the eliminator installed? This is the first post I've seen where someone has mentioned the valve moving after manually moving the valve to open and fitting an eliminator, but if the valve hadn't actually seized to start with then I can see how it could easily close again.
I'm new to the forum and appreciate your comments / advise, The exhaust valve eliminator was fitted by the main dealer at the first service under warranty. As I recall the main dealer said the valve was faulty so they fitted the eliminator, my guess is it was still operating as the cable and servo are still connected. If it wasn't working they would have had to replace the whole section of pipe to replace the exhaust valve and suspect its seized some time after, its disappointing it wasn't picked up at the 2nd service last month. I've called the dealer this morning, they advised disconnecting the cable and the servo but I don't see the point if the valve stays in the open position. I'm waiting for then to come back to me as to why it wasn't picked up at the 2nd service! My only concern is that the valve will vibrate closed again, I'm going to leave it as it is for the time being but will defo drill it out if it closes up again.
No worries Jim. I've not heard of a valve sticking quite so soon as before the first service. I'm not saying that all bikes are going to behave the same, but I bought my DVT in Feb '16 and rode through the remainder of that winter in all weathers and covered about 5,500 miles by May '16 before my valve stuck. Conversely, I'm sure there are folk on here that have probably had no issues with their exhaust valve at all. I think it highly unlikely that the valve would have given trouble before the first service and I suspect that the dealer probably did it as a preventative measure since installing them would likely save them some time in the long run. It sounds like they probably just did a "connect it and leave it" installation and if it hadn't seized then it's entirely possible that it could move about due to vibration, etc, and then once it does seize it ends up in some other position than 100% open. It does seem that replacing the entire section is a standard Ducati factory response to the issue. Alas, it seems that there is no difference in the replacement item and so the issue just recurs. It's a crappy response from Ducati and so I can see why dealers might opt for a whole range of solutions to tackle it - which range from fitting an EE to drilling it out. It's actually really disappoint that Ducati haven't grasped this incredibly simple and extremely common issue and just dealt with it. There is just no consistency, which isn't good for the customer because we all end up adopting a variety of resolutions which ultimately masks the feedback that Ducati should be getting and therefore they don't fix it ... because they don't believe they have enough of a problem to warrant re-engineering of the device. OK, well if they advised disconnecting the cable then they obviously left it connected, which isn't going to help as it's literally half-a-solution. I'm not familiar with the heal-tech item but the general purpose of these devices is only to tell the ECU that there is a load on the servo. The ECU normally uses that data to determine that the valve is working, otherwise it throws an engine management warning light on the dash. The purpose of the device is only to tell the ECU that all is OK with the servo and I don't believe they alter the behaviour of the servo movement. Therefore, the valve could still be operating with the cable connected but without the warning light coming on when there is a problem. In light of what you've mentioned it would seem that this outcome was fairly predictable. Generally, folk turn to an EE only once they've got a problem, and as and when it manifests then the valve is already at the point of seizing, hence once the cable is disconnected and the valve manually set to open the solution is permanent, and just gets more permanent over time as the valve becomes harder to shift to the point that it's pretty solid.
The EE plugs into the loom instead of the servo, so it is completely disconnected, and doesn't operate at all.
