Am I understanding his settings correctly? Front: 1 1/4 compression 3 out compression. So im assuming turn all the way in and wind out? Rear: Compression (top screw) 1 3/4. Rebount 2 1/4. So im assuming as the forks turn all the way in and wind out. I'd like to try the above, I'll check the stock settings first so I can put it back to how it was if the above dont work for me. Is my understanding correct above? I'm similar weight to Dave Moss so defo worth trying. At the moment I feel as if the rear wants to bukaroo me off the back on bumpy roads.
DM is not my favourite vid guy, but "set up" is weirdly compulsive viewing, especially when the tiniest adjustments (1/16th FFS!) seems to make a difference. I am thinking I should take more interest in this as tyre wear is important at the track and my riding needs all the help it can get
Yup you're right. Damping is always counted from fully in, hence you see things like two clicks/turns out etc. Preload is the opposite though, so counted from fully out (zero preload) to fully in (max preload). Getting your preload set right for both front and rear is a pretty critical step, and copying the rest of the settings may make things a whole lot worse if you don't have the right level of preload. He has loads of videos of it, you'll need a mate to help you take the measurements etc. This is why taking it to a specialist and paying them the money is so worth it. I also sat and watched hours of Dave Moss videos, and then took it to Steve Jordan and I was still pretty wrong. Copying settings from other bikes is also tricky. What's the air temp at the time, how many miles has the bike done, how olds the fork oil and what life has it been subjected to. Nothing wrong with having a play yourself though, just note down your adjustments each time. Fork rebound will likely make the biggest difference when it's right, that's what I found anyway. Having a fork that doesn't bounce back and mean needing to make mid corner input adjustments makes a huge difference
Yep. I'm going to start with the Rebound on rear shock first. I watch a MCN review of the Superveloce 800, which is basically an F3 with SV800 body. The guy reviewing it said same thing as me and he done couple of turns of the rebound. Front to me feels good. Once this freeze spell passes I'm gonna have a play. I'll prob still end up taking it to a specialist though at some stage.
Yep, it can either be too fast so it’s like zeberdee or too slow and it squats/packs down and then feels harsh
Yeah you have to be so careful.. the marzochi forks can be way over sensitive. Ref comments about the rear kicking you in the but, the rebound is the most critical on this bike I feel. If it’s too fast the bike just feels too lively under bum! also, Dave moss on tyres, I do think he hams it up way too much, he lost me when he Did a video on the suspension mass damper thing and failed to address why no superbike team in the world is using them, and only a couple of moto 2 teams used them. Obv ignoring MotoGP but I suspect theirs are quite different.
Just an update on this thread. I setup the suspension yesterday with Dave Moss settings, wow what a transformation. Bike felt all over the place before, also when braking the front was quite bouncy. Took her out today, feels perfect now and braking is soo much better too. Not suprising though as the stock front pre-load is 3 turns, with this setup its double that to 6 turns. Have to say can't believe the transformation adjusting the suspension does. Front: 6 turns in pre-load compression. (3 stock) 1 1/4 out compression damping. 3 out rebound damping. Rear: Pre-load left as stock. Compression damping 1 3/4 out. Rebound damping 2 1/4 out
Bear in mind that preload settings are heavily influenced by rider weight, so borrowing others settings might not necessarily be correct for you. Loads of videos around on how to measure your static and rider sag (easiest with a friend's help) and the usual rule of thumb is to aim for around 25mm of rider sag on the front. Get a cable tie round one of the forks and make sure under heavy braking you've still got 10mm or so left, that should then be a nice place to be for road riding
