Looks like you got good results there. I would just personally use a lathe because I've been trained to use one, its enjoyable, very accurate, creates a good finish and its the proper engineering tool for the job. Can't beat a lathe at 2000rpm, just make sure the chuck is on tight lol!!
I agree, but as I don't have lathe any more and if needs must, then the drill gets used.......just as dangerous as a lathe if one chuck isn't clamped up tight....saw a guy at school in metalwork class slice his face and shoulder open because of that..... .....I don't know what the slow speed of my drill is, but it probably 250 - 500 rpm......and I stand to the side when I am doing it.......however I have whacked it up to full speed to see if the items would stay in or oscillate....they did, so far.....but the results are not so good, which is why I use slower speeds.......and I make sure the chuck is so tight, I sometimes can't get the b*gger undone..... AL
Well, they might take me longer than if I had a lathe, but still............they gave me something to do..... .......but I reckon if the Mujahadin can make decent rifle barrels sitting in the sand, boring them with a very long drill bit and a bit of string operated by a wooden trestle pedal; then I should be able to make a couple of brake pad pins..... AL
Agreed, would look terrible rusty but I think I can safely say that three shitty B@Q files later that more was taken off the files than the metal sleeve it actually wore them down to bare metal in places, lol.
Sup- don't know the area THAT well! but well done. I would have to drink the bottle (bottle's) to kiss anything around here
You didn't keep the file still did you? It will wear the file down doing that, especially with stainless steel..... Use the file as though the piece you are filing is stationary..... I have some old good files that are getting worn and didn't want to mess them up, so I used some cr*p JCB ones (Chinese, I think) to rip off most of the excess....the files just about survived......and then I finished off with one of the old good files, followed by emery cloth, then wet & dry, then a polishing wheel with Solvol Autosol on it....(stand clear when you first switch on)..... AL
All done, thanks for all the advice. Well as you can see it was a great success, but cost me three cheap crappy B@Q files. And about four hours, but saved me £300 buy not buying the correct one in the first place good shout Al. 1. Add nut/bolt 2. Secure drill to bench 3. Turn on and go for it. fits like a glove. need to find a spacer of some sort for the other side of the mounting bolt as per the video but will show the end result when it's done. Thanks again guys.
Yeah, I did at times because it felt as though it was 'taking' more in certain places but hey u live and learn. Not done any metalwork since secondary school - bloody long time ago so not too shabby considering the shitty drill and no proper bench/vice to use.
Very easily checked . Stainless is non magnetic , unless its been badly mixed and would rust anyway , steel is magnetic .. Simples. oh and my money is still an cadmium plate.
Well, that looks like a fair job for a beginner........and if it fits like a glove, just cut the fingers off.... And if it is plated, just spray a couple of coats of clear lacquer on it..... BTW....what is the slot in it? Have you got to do anything with that? AL
slot may well be very important , but not sure without a good look , could be just to let the water out or something has to stop bike falling off stand . By the way though I do think you made a good job of it.
