you can run a second earth cable (£5 ish from a motor factor) from the battery earth to the engine earth as a cheap way to check , my multi has had gradualy worsening earth problems for a long time, from the thread i think the bike might of been layed up with starting problems & the filter damage happened after, could you try and bump start the bike in second gear ?
I also think that the sequence of problems could be like this. I have tried to start it by pushing, but the floor of my garage is very slippery and I have not succeeded. I have been advised to try starting it with a second battery directly connected to the starter motor. I will try these two methods, and the ground wire as you say. I think I remember reading something about putting a ground wire between the starter motor and the battery, but I'm not sure and I can't find the post where I read it. Thanks
ideally you need a little hill or slope to bump start it's worth a check as often when my bike would not start with the starter motor it would still bump start so problem was in the starter electrics or relay. the battery to earth just backs up the existing cable that runs from the battery earth to the engine earth on the front left side of the engine which is behind the oil pipes in a crud/dirt trap & often causes problems. Good Luck
Connect the jpdiag software and put the kill switch at on position.If in software shows OFF ,throw up the side stand or put a gear.Notice if change the status of kill switch at software.Clean very well the ground cable on the connection at engine case.Try to start the motor with pressure at kill switch buttom.Disassebly the kill switch and clean well.Try to disconnect the neutral switch and sorted his cable from ECU at engine case.I saw your jpdiag picture and your battery voltage was 9.1.The voltage must be over than 12.6.Becouse you don't have errors I think is ground problem
Hi Ben155, The voltage is low because the battery is at the end of its life, but I connect an auxiliary car battery when I try to start it and it moves the engine perfectly. I have a new battery waiting for when she returns to work. I will try all the things you tell me and I will tell you about it. This is the cable (52) that I need to improve? Thanks
Yes 52 is the ground cable.Clear on the point 53 (screw on engine case).In your first picture down from 2 fuses( number 49) is the injection relay.Check with multimeter or test lamp if it closed when starter motor turned.
I was as you....for laughs or cry.. confusion....the psychologist is near with this problems . .For first check the basics.Why the engine don't start? You must find what is missing. 1.low compression.I think you are ok. 2.non spark.Unscew the spark plug and ground it on engine.Push the start button and see if you have fire. 3.non fuel.Smell from spark plug hole or see if the spark plug is wet 4.fulse fuel mixture.You need to check throttle bodies,tps degrees and position,co trimmer,by bass screw
I've tried what you told me, the kill switch stays OFF on the JpDiag, whatever I do, it doesn't change. If I turn it off the starter doesn't work, but if I turn it on, the starter works. Although it always appears OFF in the JpDiag.
Maybe the software is wrong.Can you try another software? https://www.von-der-salierburg.de/download/GuzziDiag/ For mts1000 choose breva 1100
1.I haven't measured it, but from the air coming out of the spark plug housing when I remove it, I don't think that's the problem. 2. When I do that, the spark plug only sparks a few times and is very poor, but when I do the coil test on the JpDiag, the spark is very good, in all spark plugs. 3. When I try to start the engine, the fuel pump works fine and pressurizes the lines, because I have seen gasoline coming out of the fuel pump pressure regulator. but the spark plugs are dry. I don't know if the injectors work, because I don't see them working when I do the test in the JpDiag and I'm afraid that when I try to start the same thing happens with the spark plugs, they don't work correctly, but I'm not sure. 4. The TPS seems to work well because it is at 3º at rest and while I open the throttle it increases its value more or less regularly, remaining stable at any gas opening.I have verified that the throttles open well and I cannot regulate the CO if the engine does not start and reaches operating temperature. What I do not understand and I have lost, is that the spark plugs work perfectly when I do the test and when I try to start the spark it is very, very poor. It seems as if the ECU sends power to them only a few times and very poorly. Can the ECU be bad without giving errors in the JpDiag? The ECU that I have mounted is one that came with the Termignoni exhaust kit, because the original ECU was damaged by the previous owner by changing the polarity of the battery. This is the original ECU. When this ECU is put on the bike, it gives an engine error and does not allow to start it, the error that appears on the instrument panel is Er 19.2 This is the Termignoni exhaust kit ECU. With this ECU no error appears on the instrument panel or on the JpDiag.
The newest multis 2005 have an extra small ground cable to ecu,as a picture.Do you have?On body ECU connector must you have 12vols at pins 4,17 (key on) and 27 (kill switch on).Read this post is the same as you but unfortunately without solve..https://jpdiag.xooit.eu/t4701-Ducati-Multistrada-1000DS-cranks-over-but-won-t-fire-up.htm. Maybe your starter motor draws the current from the ECU.You can try using extra battery only on starter motor.I Think your ECU is good.Your ecu looks reflash ,your map 965118203.BA i think isn't dp map, but that's not a problem.It is ok for termi s .
Hi Ben155 I already read that post. My bike has the ECU ground cable. I'll check the voltage across the pins. The starter is new, because it did not work when I bought the bike, and it turned out to be a loose ground connection, but since I had already bought it, I put the new one and have the old one as a spare, because it works well. These are the photos of my Termignoni ECU.
i've been here with my 1100s. but i think it uses a different engine ECU. pop the plugs out, jack up the rear, slip it in to 2nd, turn the rear wheel by hand. are you getting a spark? then try it with the plugs out using the starter moter. no/poor spark? if so, chances are you need a new starter motor
Hi "Kraken In picture which you had uploaded your termi ECU serial 7f8....7j has a 965118203BA map but in the sticker writes 96511803BA.I think the dp map for full termi is the 96511803B.In my multi ( full termis) I tried some maps OEM ,803B,..etc... In the last 3 years I have the same map with you ( ....203BA).I believe is better than 803B.None of these are the actual problem.Your bike doesn't have strong spark and pulse on injectors in the start phase.Also the injector test doesn't work .There is something wrong with ECU grounded or current ECU supply.Can you try with your first OEM ECU if the injector test works.I had the same problem two times.In the first time after a week ...I found when I pushed the kill switch the bike started and the second time I cleared the ground cables.Another time the bike had started when I ground the neutral switch cable
The OEM ECU is bad and does not do the injector or coil test. Regarding the ECU Termi, I think they replaced the 203B map with 803BA and that is why it has the label stuck on top of the original sticker.
