Not needed, even if You power the bike up and get a DSS error it cycles through a calibration and goes away
Where abouts are you ?? I have a proper spring compressor and have changed my spring myself onto a different shock
I’m in Hertfordshire, changed springs before but not sure if any special tools are need for these shocks
Ahhh shame I’m a bit far away in N Yorks I found that a std set of compressers did t do the job so I got a Motion Pro Mono shock one…. Does the job nicely
Reactive Parts sell these in the UK - £187 inc VAT. The actual Ohlins damper is a bit more than from your seller - £349.99 inc VAT.
Just looked at the bike after being away for a few days and there is only adjustment on the right hand fork leg. I assume this is all there is to adjust.
So…… following the discussion in this thread and Hootowls firm conviction that a damper improves things no end….. I jumped in , found an Enduro model std one, replaced a few bits of the mountings and fitted it It must be said that…. The std Enduro item is a very light damper, so much so I wondered if it was worth the effort after ordering the replacement parts but as they were on the way, when they arrived I fitted it. It’s easy to fit, the base plate clamps around a plate on the frame and the other half under the lower yoke I had to trim the plastic mud shield to clear the damper but that was easy So 1st ride…. I must reiterate that my bike is very stable, loaded, unloaded high speed, low speed whatever it has the following 1) rear triple staged spring for my weight 2) front pre load set for my weight 3) I’m running 3.5w fork oil as per the text on the fork service NOT the fluid table and in my opinion is better for it 4) the forks are raised through the yokes as high as they will go without fouling the fairing All the above makes it nice to ride ( for me) So back to the damper…. I took it out on some fast flowing roads local to me ( easy 3 figure speeds) and the difference is noticeable, the steering seems more precise… firing out of 2nd gear corners whilst previously You could feel movement ( tho not flighty) it is now very planted under hard acceleration Today I took it for part two testing over some very very bumpy twisty N Yorks back roads that upset most things if you get carried away…. What a revelation… even on The worst roads I could find it was still noticeably planted and easy to ride even at a “brisk” pace So to conclude, whilst I still believe the suspension need setting up to work at its best… a Steering Damper gets a huge thumbs up from me
Taking the rear shock out today to send of to TW and the dreaded bolt that fits into the swingarm is not budging. All the rumours are true! Smashing impact driver hex sockets to bits, the end of one still stuck in there. Not sure if I can be bothered to carry on with it. The ferry booked for for 22nd so maybe a winter job.
I feel Your pain…. There’s plenty of room to cut the bolt, it’s the head part that seizes not the threads I can understand waiting till winter to do it
I haven't read all posts on here, but there are several threads on the extremities of removing this lower fixing on this Forum by Derek and PeterT to name two.
yeah I’m another one who’s had the deep joy of fighting with that bolt I ended up cutting like Derek after snapping 3 Allen bits with the final Snap On one snapping off in the head and staying there Lots of anti-seize on the new bolt and had no problem since
I have read your other posts about this. Looks like I could cut on the right side of the shock ok. I’m then hoping the shock will push over enough to cut the left side.
Yes that’s what I did, the only downside is you damage the top hat sections that space the bearing meaning you need some new ones… I let TW sort that for me The rusty section in the middle of the mount is the lower spherical bearing after sitting in water every time it’s washed I ACF’d mine as well as opening the drain hole up to 6mm
