That's some lighter your using if your going to heat copper until cherry red,I wouldn't quench with water either that will harden the metal,you want to let it cool naturally so that it softens,that way it will give a good seal,
Yeah! How do you think I feel,I have just tried to heat a copper wire with a lighter! Ive now got a sore thumb,no gas,and a burnt finger(it didn't go cherry red,but hot enough to turn my skin white)whiskey ehh!
To add. My 996 just had a new slave. Bleed as normal and worked fine apart from neutral went AWOL. Some clever sausage said air in the system. I tried the cable tie trick and maybe marginal better. Bought a bleeding banjo for the master and fitted and bleed only at the top yesterday. Good as ever now, maybe better than ever. Cable tie is no match for a bleed nipple.
Bleeding from the top is often over looked for hour upon hour of pointless pump 'n'bleed at the bottom nip.
Oh my head. Yeah sorry about that mate, next time hold the washer with pliers and use a rubber band on the lighter or a Zippo! :Muted:
I use a Mityvac that I got from bikers toolbox , similar to the eazibleed I guess: Brake Service Tools It works a treat and I'm not getting brake fluid spilt everywhere trying to bleed stuff. Before I got it every so often I'd need to take the Panigale to a garage to get the brakes bled properly as I couldn't get a good feel but now I hardly ever need to do it. Whilst I know lots of people that do the lever cable tie thing, science tells me it's a temporary fix at best and your brakes still need sorting properly!
Not for copper. It should be heated to cherry red and then quenched. The Annealing Process - An Easy Guide on how to Anneal Metals
But given the cost of new washers why mess about with heating them and quenching or not quenching them - in my experience the important bit is to get the temperature / colour right. The easiest way I found to bleed the brakes is first of all push the brake pads and pistons in the calipers back as far as they will go and jam them there against the disc. This reduces the amount of fluid and potential old crap stuck in the caliper voids. Then giving the brake lever a real hard squeeze and getting the system under pressure (use a cable tie if necessary), open one caliper bleed nipple - mind your eyes and paintwork - you are blasting all the crappy stuff out. You can actually do both sides at the same time if you can reach both nipples. If necessary, refill and do the same with the other caliper. Then flush the system through with clean fluid using the same process - don't expect to get decent pressure straight away. When I first did the SS I had to crack the top hose union at the reservoir, even though I had the front wheel turned left on full lock to get the resevoir as falt as possible. Although it worked that way I felt it was a bit mucky, so in the end I blagged a whacking great syringe from my GP which I connect to the caliper bleed nipples via a 'Y' small bore hose connector - I filled the syringe with fresh fluid and with both nipples open filled the system from the bottom with someone watching the reservoir so it didn't overflow. Plenty of cloth spread around though.
Yes that's a good tip, I usually take the pads out and pump the pistons most of the way out but use an old brake pad in between the pistons to squeeze against to prevent them coming all the way out. As far as why mess with old washers, usually you wouldn't but heating an old one up to soften it a bit can get you out of a situation when there are no new ones to hand.
Practically speaking how corrosive is brake fluid, how careful should we be when bleeding brakes and is a good wash with shampo sufficient afterwards. The design of the bleed nipples is rubbish and inevitably fluid comes out past the threads and dribbles wherever.
'My mate at the local garage' says modern brake fluid is no longer a problem for modern paint but I haven't been brave enough to test that. What I do know is I've made some terrible messes with brake fluid over the years and as far as I can tell it has never once acted like paint stripper.
My diaphram cracked on the reservoir and leaked and it's marked the rev counter glass and i can't shift it.....
Seems there's other opinions out there,I heat and cool naturally,it has always worked! The reason I do this I find the original washers are a better fit and thinner than after market ones?
