Brakes

Discussion in 'Multistrada' started by Twin4me, Apr 18, 2012.

  1. I am trying Vesrah Sintered Pads on the front; which together with the rear brake upgrade has much improved the feel and confidence. The bike is now so much better to ride; and having a back brake that works really makes a huge differance - I'm in love again !!
     
  2. I've got the bike in for a service next week and back brake upgrade. I mentioned the front brakes but the dealer told me it would be really complicated and expensive to upgrade as I would need to change discs as well. Is this true? Seems unlikely...

    Will any Brembo M4 mono blocks fit, or are there a specific type/fitment I would need?

    I do like the look of these (the price is steep but less than Demon Tweeks £822!)

    Brembo Racing M4 100 Cast Monoblock Radial Brake Calipers Ducati Diavel 2011 11> | eBay
     
    #42 Twin4me, Jun 8, 2012
    Last edited: Jun 8, 2012
  3. yes, but wouldn't that be : "250kph to 30 kph end of the straigth braking" - the kind of braking nobody really does?

    tx

    Koen
     
  4. just bolt on i guess.. it is a fact that once you start fiddling, mostly you end up changing everything :) and braking is expensive upgrading... i don't htink you would have to change the disks ...
     
  5. just bolt on i guess.. it is a fact that once you start fiddling, mostly you end up changing everything :) and braking is expensive upgrading... i don't think you would have to change the disks ... and if you do , there a some 848 320 mm to be found.... also putting on the 330 mm 1198 's only require a 5MM spacer on the calipers... and then you want another master cylinder.... and so we go on.... but then the tires are not sticky enough anymore and you go from 6K km/set compound to 3K Km/set compound... just to avoid the ABS to work overtime .... and you will have to upgrade springs as the suspension can't cope with the forces anymore... :) welcome to upgrade land... :)
     
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  6. Flex is down to the amount of force applied, not the speed. Maybe I shouldn't squeeze so hard, but where's the fun in that?

    Sounds more like the dealer just CBA.

    Modification of the hardline from the the ABS unit to the calipers is a bit of a faff as you have to strip the bike a little to remove it, but otherwise it's a doddle. No need to change the discs.

    Any set of 100mm M4's will do, I'm not aware of any "differences". I think my calipers were first fitted (briefly) to an S1000RR. Either keep a lookout on ebay for a used set, or if you're going to buy new go to Carpimoto - they're a hell of a lot cheaper.
     
  7. Update on my brakes

    I was always sure that something wasn't right with them and so today when I spotted red Multistrada S Touring parked up near the Stand (anyone here) and I went and had a quiet squeeze.

    The lever travel was about 2-3mm rather than the 10-15mm on mine and the rear brake was pretty solid with about 10mm of movement. In contrast in order to activate my rear brake my foot is pointing straight down.

    The bike is booked in to the dealer on Friday. I'm getting the rear brake upgrade so I'm hoping that will help and I'm sure the issue with the front is air in the system that they failed to bleed out last time I took it in.
     
  8. Just wanted to update this thread again.

    Rear brake upgrade was done, now works perfectly. I've not braked hard enough to lock the tyre or get the ABS kicking in yet but it's fine for normal use.

    Front brakes - SO much better, must have just been down to air in the system (despite the dealer supposedly bleeding it when I complained the first time), still not brilliant in the wet as they judder and squeal a bit but not as bad as they were.
     
  9. One more update on the subject.

    After 2,500 miles since the last service and the front brake started going mushy again (rear brake still OK). I looked at bleeding it myself but could not seem to to bleed the callipers without brake fluid pouring out of the banjo bolts as soon as I loosened the bleed nipple. (Am I doing something wrong, I've done it like this for years on other bikes?)

    The front brake was even worse after my efforts! I used a bunjee cord to hold the brake lever closed overnight and then bled the master cylinder. Wow what a transformation, it was like squeezing a brick, almost too fierce. After riding for a couple more weeks it's softened slightly and is perfect, discs still squeal a bit in the wet but much, much better.
     
  10. Ive just had the rear brake mod done, noticed a box with brembo being taken into the workshop not sure what parts they swap over but it works. Dont understand your comment about fluid pouring from banjo bolt when opening a bleed nipple, shouldnt it still be sealed, very odd.
     
  11. Yes, I thought it was odd. When I tried to bleed the front callipers I connected up my bleeder tube and loosened the bleed nipple, no fluid (or Air) came out when the brake lever was squeezed (which was still stiff) but as soon as I slackened the bleed nipple another half a turn the fluid just came out of the banjo bolts.
     
  12. Share your bleeding method sport (for the rear), im all ears as my fluid is now as black as the ace of spades and all dealers are not real helpful for a cracking fix-if you know what i mean.
     
  13. If you want to get brake mad; try Brembo M4's calipers (100mm) on the front with BrakeTech AXIS Iron discs and HH Ferodo Organic pads. Then this Brembo Brembo Super Sport Billet Rear Caliper caliper with the Braketech rear Iron disc and the appropriate Ferodo pads. New lines would help too.

    Just sayin'.
     
  14. ..and disable the effing rear ABS! I'm sure that biatch is half of the rear problem!
     
  15. When I did that last week, I found the rear can lock quite easily, so I am not sure if there really is a rear brake problem with Multis after all, I wonder if the tall bike makes the weight shift forward and that's why I don't get the retardation I was expecting.
     
  16. I'm sorry to resurrect this thread but I was searching for anyone who had done the Brembo M4 upgrade and have read a lot of good information. However I'm thoroughly confused about all the references to a rear brake upgrade. I bought a 1200s Touring brand new in March last year and know nothing about this and I was wondering if I should. To be fair I don't think I have ever used the rear brake in anger in 14 years of riding a 996, an ST4s and a 748sp so I wouldn't know what to expect. What's the problem ? Thanks, Andy.
     
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  17. A 12 bike should have had the upgrade, it was new hoses and positioning of the slave cylinder only carried out if owner complained about loss/poor performance or excessive pedal travel.
     
  18. Well firstly the M4's are the front calipers (Monobloc, cast). You knew that though. Contact Ebrew on the US Ducati.ms site or the other geezers on here now with the M4's fitted. Note though there is some brake line plumbing that is required, again, well covered here.

    Ive mentioned the suggested rear caliper upgrade earlier in this thread but as others have discovered, disabling the rear ABS and the standard unit (in some circumstances) works all too well!

    My M4, forged rear Brembo caliper+BrakeTech cast iron disk upgrade project is um, dragging :-(. How's that for a bad pun :)

    I thought I'd have a few new pearls of wisdom for you but everyone here has it well covered. One thing I have on good authority is dont disable the ABS on the front with the M4's fitted unless you are Jesus. They will spit you off.

    Other posters may beg to differ.
     
  19. My 11 plate by my request had the rear brake upgrade as pedal was pointing due south with no slowing of rear wheel. 1 week later rear now back to 'pants' mode. 15000 belt service end of month so will get it bled again. Dealer said that the mechanic was having big issues bleeding rear brake after upgrade was fitted in workshop!
     
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