I used a 916 kill switch and changed the connectors to the little white ones. Got the connectors from Farnell, although you have to buy the pins etc separate. http://uk.farnell.com/jst-japan-solderless-terminals/02t-jwpf-vsle-s/tab-housing-2way/dp/3849818 They do multiple way connectors. Get plenty of extras, as you tend to ruin a few before getting the knack. I have the correct crimp tool too.
Cheers @final_edition 4 way http://uk.farnell.com/jst-japan-sol...=http:en-GB/Element14_United_Kingdom/w/search
I did have a think about the weather proof-ness of the mod and decided it wasn’t worth worrying about. All of the switch gubbins are on the top of the switch (the back part is basically a clamp). The existing switch doesn’t seal around the bar anyway (the pin stops it from spinning, and once you have removed that it spins freely on the bar, so water could have got into that gap anyway. It isn’t likely to get doused in water anyway because it is behind the fairing. The way I see it it just had a bit of a drain hole now. As an absolute last resort, I could put some of the electrical protection grease stuff I have left over from my jet ski, however I don’t see it being a problem if you cut out just enough.
@Nelson hopefully these pictures show better what I have done (sorry, I couldn’t be bothered to take it apart!). So, leaving the piece that the 2 bolts go through, I cut a T shaped piece out. The top of the T is closest to the M/C main body, and the stubby little bottom leg of the T was an extra bit to go around the bit fed from the fluid reservoir... And this is why you can’t just slide the switch up the bar a bit....
You could do a neater job to get a better fit, but this was hours before the Portimao drop off and I was under pressure!!
V4 switch has no cabling. The bikes loom plugs into the switch. May be doable, but you’ll need a connector for the switch and loom to make a patch lead up.
Sorry no link as i was just googling the pics. What i have found and will do on my 1299s is that i will use longer handlebars (300mm) and i will swap the original switch position with the MC. The extra 15mm will give plenty of space to allocate the original switch without any cutting.
Just a heads up, I'm going to be making some cheapo plug n play switches which I'll up up for sale in the For Sale thread. It should be up as soon as I get the required plugs and switches. Will look like this(not original domino).
I have just done a mockup fitment of the Brembo 19RCS and Brembo Billet Master Cylinder using longer handlebars. All looks tight but fit perfectly and movement is not restricted, i was a bit worry as the MC has a banjo connection on the bottom and i was thinking it will catch the fairing when on full turn, but there is still got 4-5mm clearance. Need to look fitment of the reservoir next as this might be a next challenge.
@Nelson I can't recall if I asked you; did the RCS19 make a noticeable difference?. Did you say that you'd fitted 1098 disc also? Cheers, Bob
Hi Bob, yes, great upgrade IMO. Just need to upgrade my balls a bit to take full advantage! I've got posh 330mm HPK discs on my bike. 1098/1198 ones will go on with 5mm spacers behind the calipers.
https://www.bikesportdevelopments.co.uk/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=BD_SW_3BX_A these mount on your brake master cylinder instead of the clamp
