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Broken Bleed Nipple

Discussion in 'Technical Help' started by Cream_Revenge, Mar 29, 2015.

  1. I was there Friday :)

    Well as long as it aint going to leak or weep or let air in or suddenly pop out under braking it should be ok to ride I think.
     
  2. They weren't having a good laugh in parts about some nob head who can't use a torque wrench and needs to ease up on the protein shakes were they?
     
  3. I was there to early around 10ish and gone by 11:30 so I missed all the laughter.
     
  4. I think you need a lesson in doing bolts up, I mean who uses a torque wrench to do a bolt up when it has been subjected to years of corrosion and wear?
    Yes if you are in a factory with new bolts and threads covered in fresh oil and you are doing up thousands then yes I agree.
    But a calliper on a 10 year old Duke will never have the same torque value as a new factory fresh item?
    I do feel for you though, but this is a lesson worth learning that some bolts really do tell you when they are tight enough.
    Good luck with getting it sorted.:upyeah::upyeah:
     
    • Like Like x 1
  5. Think I just had a lesson.
     
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  6. If the bleed nipple has snapped off fully in and tight and the brakes are not hideously spongy, then go for it,they will be fine.
     
  7. If the bleed nipple has snapped off fully in and tight and the brakes are not hideously spongy, then go for it,they will be fine.
     
  8. Breaks are SOLID, nipple totally screwed in.
     
  9. lost count of the amount of wheel cylinders and bleed nipples i broke or striped when i was learning.
     
    • Funny Funny x 1
  10. Same as!Most of my GT250s/RD250s only had half a nipple.
     
    • Agree Agree x 1
  11. i think its safe to say anything with a tapered seat rather than a compression washer, turn till it stops then say another 90 degrees
     
  12. Funny, I had a scathing lecture from a know it all on here for suggesting using the proper sized spanner gives roughly the right torque and no wrench was needed for most bolts. In fact he inferred I was a village dunce. Worked for me for years with lots of stress both on road and track and have spent many a weekend rebuilding parts which either need changing or repairing/replacing and never failed me yet.

    My wrench is used for wheels, front sprocket, top yoke nut and thats probably about it
     
    • Funny Funny x 1
  13. So 12Nm is just over finger tight!
    What dynamic range does this faulty torque wrench have?
    I'd be using a 5-15Nm as my others would be totally unsuitable.
    Glad to see that you actually used a wrench, but I must admit 99% of engineers or motor technicians (even the village idiot ) would probably just nip it up. Good luck with the easy out, drilling even a cheap torx will be fun. You might end up having to go up to the next size bleed nipple and rethreading if the drilling don't go to plan.
     
  14. another idea would be when carrying out any work on ya bike replace any old bolts and or bleed nipples at the same time as we all know they are made of cheese to start with.. know this dont help your current problem but perhaps worth thinking about with any future tinkering
     
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    • Agree Agree x 1
  15. Just a thought,I didnt think 996 bikes had a bleed nipple at the M/C.
     
  16. Spooky... Both responding at the same time?
    Albeit with a very different message.
     
  17. Clutch don't, brake does.
     
  18. 5 - 25NM, bought it specifically for this bike in Jan.
     
  19. Well that was the tool for the job.
    Cheese brake bleed nipple. It wasn't an "upgraded" stainless one was it?
     
  20. Nope, gold one.
     
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