Firstly I’m not familiar with Ducati’s. Just my thoughts and I could be well off. Did you find your melted stator connections whilst you were investigating your neutral/ no prime issue? Is it possible that they are unrelated ? Does the bike turn over with the side stand up and clutch in, and only not start because the fuel pump isn’t priming ? Been in a similar situation myself as you can see !
its possible that i do have two faults. when i was in the layby the bike would start but then cut out when put into gear. then with some of the wires bare i put the side fairing on and the bike would not turn over. i have the bike in bits at the moment and going to do some work on it this week. i will post again once everything has been installed.
I think you do have 2, or more, unrelated issues. The burnt wiring at the stator r/r connector looks like it had been cooking for some time. The fact the bike started but cut out when put into gear is indicative of a faulty side stand switch or a faulty clutch switch. Error code 38 is a canbus error
just found a clip/video for a problem solver on youtube under ERROR CODE CAN 38.0 SOLUTION. I looked at all the fuses about 3 times but when i tested the fuse it had blown, for the ecu 5a. as you can see from the photo it looks in good nick. so thats the error code off the dash now. my next problem is why the bike will not start. i put fresh fuel in it and it is firing for split second but will not tick over. the fuel pump is coming on ok. i have renewed the battery,mosfet reg/rec, the neutral switch and both the relays next to the battery. voltage on the battery is about 12.9 and 12.0 on the clock, its always been a poor starter. both plugs have been cleaned. could it be the starter motor is faulty or something is draining the battery when i press the starter button ?.
You stated in the original post you had repaired your side stand switch. Double check your repair or I presume it can simply be bridged out.
tank off and removed fuel pump, everything on pump looked ok. tested solenoid @ 12v giving me 12.45. still firing on pressing starter button but will not start/idle. fucking nightmare ,now one of the rubber seals on the quick release connectors has split. small leak, so i will order a couple
I feel your pain mate, been there. When you found your blown fuse did you continue to check all the others with a meter ? You might like to try to get some easy start into your air intakes to see if she will run for a moment. I’m not suggesting this will resolve your issue but it would raise your spirits and narrow down the possible reason for your issue. I followed my workshop manual testing everything multiple times before finding a factory soldered joint had broken. I just had to keep at it, testing and proving, you’ll get there and proving it can actually run, all be it with a bit of outside assistance will help you keep going.
is it possible to test all of the pump and internal hoses using its connector with battery connected to the bike, submerged in water with a dye inserted. one problem could be getting a shock . has anyone tried this using a hose on one or both of the inlet/outlet connections.
So I’m guessing that you can hear your pump priming but your wondering if it’s actually doing it’s job ? Just me, but if I had concerns about the pump I would remove it and at least make sure the gauze filter is not blocked. You can only do so much with it though. You can partially strip it down but unless your considering changing o rings and seals, regulators etc, it’s a bit of a dead end. How would you check the flow rate etc. A good second hand unit would be better if you really wanted to take the pump out of your no start issue.You can buy just the actual pump separately. If you do go down the road of removing your tank make sure that none of the fuel lines have been compromised by any restrictions and the lines are returned correctly when you reinstall everything. You wouldn’t want to add an issue when searching for the solution. Been there.
the pump is priming and i have removed it , all the hoses/ connections look ok. got new o-rings fitted to the quick release connectors so i will double check everything on the bike tomorrow and fire it up. if there is fuel on the plugs and it does not start then its not a pump issue. might plug it in before i put it back inside the tank.
started the bike and its firing more but then cutting out. i kept doing this and then PK.UP 34.0 appeared, pick-up sensor error. the bike still wanted to fire with the error message. disconnected the connector from loom to sensor and it looked in good condition . if possible i will test the sensor now and post later
tested sensor and i am getting 0.84 using 200k ohms but only at certain terminals on the sensor connector