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Carbed SS/888/851/early916/748 sidestand bolt, is there any demand?

Discussion in 'Supersport (1974-2007)' started by Carlos Fandango, Jan 9, 2014.

  1. What is the height of the bolt head overall?

    My spring plate doesn't catch on the lower circumference of the ground down OEM affair, but it scuffs the remains of the ground down allen socket and part of the cone..........it touches about half way across the cone area before it reaches the socket area, if you know why I mean...............Here's a pic of it (non-lockwired).....

    You may want to dome the head slightly so it lifts the spring plate clear of the flats......which is what mine seems to do...

    AL

    Mod bolt.jpg
     
    #21 Ghost Rider, Jan 10, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Jan 10, 2014
  2. I recon about 3-4 mm should do it, the domed head is a good idea but will add to the cost, I think to start with I'll get two machined for us to try with a shallow flat head, if we think after trialing them they need modifying with a domed head, that's not a problem.
     
  3. Maybe round the outer 'corners' of the flats then?
     
  4. That's a good idea
     
  5. If you noticed the rusty spring plate on mine, you can see why I am going to make a stainless one or two of those.....

    .....both my spring plates are like it........
     
  6. What you will have to watch is the diameter of the head.......with flats, it will expose the eye of the stand in places.....

    The overall diameter of a round head could be just about 31mm, so if you round the corners / peaks off, you might be able to get away with the flats covering the eye....

    I could do an ACad drawing to check if it helps.....not tonight though!
     
  7. Thanks Al, please don't put yourself out any more, you've been more than helpful, without which I'd have had to go up to Ducati Aylesbury and buy a bolt as a template.
     
  8. Agreed......wrong bolt, won't fit carbed SS in any way......but the head design appears quite suitable.
     
  9. Knocked up the spring plate in stainless this morning, but it was too flipping cold to fit it...........I wasn't risking my fingers with pliers and those d*mn springs.......
     
  10. Hi

    I would take 2 of them, one for my 600 and one for my 900. Neither has a bolt at all at the moment, there is no tendancy for the stand to come off, but they don't look pretty.

    I cut the end off the 600 one and cut a screwdriver slot across the face. However, I obviously failed to get it tight enough as it must have vibrated out and vanished.
     
  11. My friend, who is going to manufacture them for me, is currently away skiing and they also have a pretty heavy workload, so the first couple should be with my towards the end of February, I'll keep you posted.
     
  12. Hi

    I would take 2 of them, one for my 600 and one for my 900. Neither has a bolt at all at the moment, there is no tendancy for the stand to come off, but they don't look pretty.

    I cut the end off the 600 one and cut a screwdriver slot across the face. However, I obviously failed to get it tight enough as it must have vibrated out and vanished.
     
  13. I have just made four versions of the spring plate in stainless steel....

    ...one of which doesn't mean cutting the bolt thingy head down; another two deal with slightly slack springs .....

    I can always post a pattern of them with a scale so you can make your own....

    AL
     
  14. Al

    I am about to have these machined I was going to have a 28mm hex head with 2mm height, do you think this will be OK?
     
  15. As long as the spring plate clears the edge, it should be....in fact you might even get away with 3mm; but the chances are the plate will still scrape across the nut thingy.....

    However, the easiest and lowest cost way of doing it is to either have the curved spring plate in stainless which allows the plate to pass the upstand part of the OEM nut, or have the nut turned in SS like the OEM one shaved down, but with a solid threaded part which can then take a deeper allen socket.
     
  16. I'm going to have the head domed so if the spring bar is bent it will still brush past the bolt head. But 2mm should be enough to get an adjustable spanner on it
     
  17. My ground down one has two flats, max 2mm.............it tends to wring a bit when pressure is applied, which is why I lockwire mine....plus I needn't tighten it too much when it is lockwired.
     
    #39 Ghost Rider, Jan 25, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Jan 26, 2014
  18. Prototype arrived today, nicely machined from stainless and with a shallow 2mm face should clear the spring bar easily.

    I've managed to loosen the old ground down nut with some mole grips and brute force so I'll fit the new bolt later and take some photos of it in situ, if its OK I'll then get an initial run of 30 made (Al, I will send one to you as a huge thank you!)

    Bolt1.jpg

    Bolt2.jpg

    Bolt3.jpg

    Bolt1.jpg

    Bolt2.jpg

    Bolt3.jpg
     
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