Thank you @DarR, much appreciated, bookmarked. I'm on 10k at the moment but with a couple of big tours next year, covid allowing, I'll probably be replacing mid year after the first one. OEM chain looking OK at the moment but will check front sprocket before the first tour and change the lot earlier if that looks suspect.
I posted on another thread about this previously; I was absolutely horrified to have my chain slipping on the front sprocket at 13,000 miles. Rear sprocket looked fine, although I'd be adjusting the chain a few times, so I was sort of expecting it to be on the way out. I use a Scottoiler, although I didn't fit it for the first few thousand miles, and I've always struggled to get the oil flow just right - either seems to be nothing or too much! That said, I am a fan, as it definitely cuts down on chain maintenance. I replaced mine with a DID and JT sprockets. I think all in I got them for about £160 from B&C Express, and I stumped up for a hideously expensive DID chain tool, as I prefer to be self-sufficient, wherever possible. In all, the job probably took me a couple of hours - it'll be less next time, now I'm familiar with the process. Only slight drawback for me was I fitted it just before going on a 2500 mile trip round Scotland, so the chain did its initial bedding-in, and was then pretty loose, until I was able to adjust it again once I got home. Note to self- buy a lightweight spanner to keep on the bike for adjustment on the go.
What's with heavy engine braking, what do you think brakes are for? So by saving your brake pads you kill the chain early, and probably don't do the clutch and gearbox much good either. But keeping it clean, wholeheartedly agree, more important than a shiny topside, do it first.
With the very nature of Vtwin heavy engine braking the use of brakes is needed a bit less, can’t say it’s done my chain or clutch any harm, OE clutch in fine condition done 42000 miles and chain done 22000 miles.
