Nothing is ever that easy Matt. Look at the hassle I had getting my old clutch spacer off the shaft. Bastard thing. Just loosen the bleed nipple with a bit of hose into a jar and push the thing in. Easier than undoing the 3 screws.
No, slacken nipple slowly and gradually whilst putting pressure on the plate. Once plate is seated, tweak back up.
Thats the problem though, the plate is seated as tight as it will go, right up against the plates inside. Got some more pics, but to be honest im fed up with it now
I will say that is tight fit indeed as there should be bit more of that centre hub out. Take plates out, put only last one in and press on it to make sure it does all the way in. Also what kind of basket is it as it has some linear there inside it. If it runs all the way inside the back wall of basket then thickness of it visible on pictures looks about what you are missing. Look at manual of that basket is it might say to skip for a plate or to use more 1.5mm steel plates. Finally if it is indeed Barnet pack then I guess it came with friction and steel plates. Take steel plates (except the dished one) form old one and put them in place of new steel plates.
Its a reinforced Barnetts basket, hence the additional steel, which helps it last about 3 times longer. The hub is the original and its the Barnett plates that have worn out. I picked up a OEM clutch set, so frictions and steels. Seeing as these are supposed to go with the hub, I dont know what the problem is. The only thing I can think of is one or more of the friction plates is a fraction too wide. I measured the steels and they are the same width as the Barnetts ones. Its not a problem with the basket, of that i'm sure. Took it out for a ride again and there is no slip, but when in gear, clutch it, the pressure plate goes too far out and stops spinning. It does seem to locate again when moving off, but as you can imagine, I'm not happy with that all. Is it a bedding in issue, ie after a few miles it will close up?
Does the pressure plate seat properly with no clutch plates fitted? thus determining it is the plates at fault. Is the centre hub nut tight and the hub solid - I had one where the large washer between hub and nut 'ate' into the hub, allowing the hub to come away from the shaft a couple of mm but it would push back in. Don't get too hung up about plate quantities and layout, I don't use any 'dished' plates and even have 1 extra friction - I removed one of the first 2 plain and 'shuffled' some thinner plain plates (to get more) into the thicker one's spaces to get the right pack thickness - doesn't make any difference to operation.
Yep, the PP sits fine up against the hub when I take out the last steel. So from my reckoning the only place I can take a steel out is from back of the stack where the two go together. My only concern is that there must be a reason why they need two steels. On the ride to work this morning I double checked and when in neutral the PP spins as it should. However when in gear and pulling the clutch in, the pressure plate stops spinning completely. Doesn't that mean the hub isn't moving either? Which I think is bad
With bike stationary and clutch pulled in it's perfectly normal for pressure plate to stop spinning after a short while - it's only light drag while disengaged that would keep it spinning.
Indeed, if you are stopped in gear, clutch in, and the PP was spinning, something would be desperately wrong
I was confused by the statement that with the bike in gear and clutch engaged that the pressure plate stopped spinning too. My bike has always done that since new. In fact when you pull in the clutch and then select a gear the pressure plate stops dead, no spinning down it stops quite abruptly. I assume its fine as if it wasn't then something would have let go by now. My clutch is standard i.e. NOT a slipper John
Yep checked the stack height and OJ you are right, the PP should stop spinning when the clutch lever is pulled in. Had that corrected by a few people now.
The fluid should move back to the reservoir by the pressure on the slave cylinder piston from the clutch springs. If it's not doing so the master cylinder piston isn't fully back when the lever is released.
This I know, my concern is the lack of apparent space on the hub. The last thing I want is the final steel to somehow slip off the end of the end and crash in the pressure plate when the clutch is released
Matt steel against steel does nothing except add thickness that I can see. Take one out . ------ it may slip or not even engage gears , let's see.
Also, the steel plates are 2.0 mm and there is a 1.5mm convex plate. You could swap a 1.5 from your old pack for a 2.0. Two convex plates won't do any harm.
I've never understood why they fit 2 steels at the start? The last clutch plate set I bought for the 916 had an extra friction plate in it, so I thought I'd try using it. By taking one of the 2 (together) plain plates out and using a mix of 1.5mm/2mm plain plates I got the right pack thickness with an extra friction plate and no dished plates - clutch works perfectly. I just alternate plain/friction, starting and ending with plain (non-slipper). Thickness of around 37 - 37.5mm (any thicker and neutral hard to find) and have had no problems. If it needs a little less thickness to work OK then I would have no problems with that, maybe the basket or pressure plate is thicker than/different to stock parts?
