yes, when I turned it to give it pressure, I lost a small drop every several minutes between the two walls, but it comes apart easily, and changing the O-ring is a 1 minute and 5 cent euro job, very easy, once this is done Happy with the work he does, easy, clean, and on a 3,000km trip, you don't have to be aware of carrying grease for the chain. every 300km approx. stop to fuel and turn it 1/4 turn, and happy
Mine isn't leaking yet but I've only done 8 miles with it on so far. Left a small pool of oil at the shops!
I got mine yesterday, it came with a spare o ring, I will test it on the bench first before fitting, just watched a couple of videos, it shows when parking up to turn it back an 1/8 of a turn to depressurise, I guess this should stop any drips from the delivery tube.
I'm in agreement with James ... I have never seen the use for a chain auto-oiler, as it seems to discourage routine chain inspection, cleaning, and adjustment. All modern motorcycle drive chains are either o-ring or x-ring (except perhaps really inexpensive ones from China, which should NEVER be installed on a Ducati), and neither style will benefit from oil being applied to the outside, as they are sealed by those x or o rings. For my money, chain maintenance is cleaning the dirt/dust off the outer surfaces of the chain using a chain cleaning brush and some solvent (I use kerosene), then wipe the chain dry with a clean shop rag and visually inspect each link for damage, then apply a very light coat of a non-flinging chain lubricant (I use Maxima Chain Wax). Once the chain is cleaned, inspected, and lubed, then I check the chain tension and adjust as required. The service intervals are dependant on miles ridden, so I visually inspect the drive chain for dust/dirt before every ride. Yes, I know that is OC, but a clean well-adjusted chain is a happy chain . The only thing I can see an auto oiler doing is depositing oil on a moving drive chain, which gets flung off at speed, making a mess. Wait a tic ... I get it ... you Brits like things that leak oil ;-)
From the workshop manual for the 1200 Enduro: Lubricating the chain: O-ring chains have sealed, life-lubed link studs and bushes. However, these chains need to be lubricated at regular intervals to protect metal parts of the chain and the Orings. Lubrication also serves to keep the O-rings soft and pliable to ensure the maximum sealing efficiency. Using a brush, apply a thin protective layer of high-density gearbox oil along the entire length of the chain both inside and outside.
Agreed. Moreover, these contraptions are a misdirected endeavour. They'll most likely make your bike look like a two-bits streetwalker with torn fishnet stockings.
Sorry for the delay, when you have the oiler screwed to the maximum, underneath you have access to a metal ring that is seen in the photo that I put disassembled, it goes in a recess simply by pressing it comes out, with the tip of a small screwdriver, and already You can unscrew until you see the O-ring, the two outer and inner bodies remain independent and as seen in the photo that hangs. As for the greasing system itself, the 37000km chain sprocket chain game lasts for me, which on this bike is quite I think, the wheel or any part does not dirty me, as you see in the video, what I do is the next: 1º, when I refuel gasoline, I raise the motorcycle to the central stand, I give 1/4 of a turn of pressure to the tank and with my hand or the toe of my boot, I rotate the tire for approximately two minutes, which lasts the most regular drip, then one more drop falls for another two minutes but very sporadically. 2º, I clean the chain every 1500/2000 km, depending on whether I am at home or traveling, I give it with wd40 chain degreaser, a motorcycle chain brush that I bring from a special motorcycle AliExpress, and As it is scootoiler oil, it is cleaned with an amazing ease, I let it act for 3 minutes and with a little water WITHOUT pressure, I dry it with a dry cloth and I start again, making sure that the rollers are all free, checking it one by one . I do not have a single oil stain on the wheels or anywhere, and it also does not leave me the amount of grease accumulated on the sprocket that the other chains left me with a Teflon type fixer, at least, I greatly improved the ease of chain maintenance, and for 15 euros, I have no regrets
Chuki , oiling the chain on the top run of the front sprocket , doesn't that tend to throw oil off as it goes round the sprocket on normal drive direction, I've fitted mine so it drips oil onto the lower chain run going away from the drive sprocket, just wondered......
if it accelerates strongly when it gives pressure to the oil can, if it can spill drops wildly, but what I do as I put it, is to raise it in the central support, give it pressure 1/4 of a turn, and push the wheel 2 minutes with the boot without walking, on the same central support, when this time passes, there are hardly any drops anymore, and the chain is well oiled, is what you see in the video posted in this post. It doesn't mess, for sure
Been using the Cobrra Nemo for about a year now with 80/90 Gear oil and it is great especially for longer trips / touring. I apply pressure and then spin the rear tyre on the centre stand or just ride slowly away from a stop and then twist the top cap back a little to release pressure and stop any drips after the initial flow has finished. That way you don't get too much oil on the chain and it keeps it clean. I still do clean the chain every few months to remove any grit that may be on the links.
Thanks for your review and also the instal pics, the cobra looks like an ideal solution so I one! A quick question based on the location of your install - can anyone tell me the torque setting to re-tighten the nut on the water pump? Thanks
