Thanks for that info.. My bike is ridden on track like I use to race, so it goes through the motions etc albeit not actually racing, but fast 7 x 20 min sessions (if your lucky) maybe over 3 days on a euro TD in 30+deg temps , so punished quite hard. I have been letting the bike cool down after every session, leaving the ignition on to allow the fans to help cool it also removed evotech rad guards. The latest pump has been was replaced by 24920511K and parts paid by Ducati which is great as the bikes a 2018/19 bike and out of warranty, but I still haven't had any response on what is ACTUALLY causing the failure, if I knew then maybe I could try and prevent it happening again ? If Ducati stated that a larger radiator is required or different coolant JUST for track use I'd understand, or even more regular oil changes etc ... I have never seen the water temp get high and alert me, so can only assume that it must be high oil temp that is causing the bearing failure, but without taking one apart I cant figure out how the sealed unit is actually lubricated. You have a bearing/seal behind the impeller and the same the other end from the parts diagrams. It looks to have 2 scavenger ports from the pump body that go to the 2 weep holes, I assume one for coolant and one for oil when any coolant or oil bypasses the seals, but how are the actual bearing behind the seals are lubricated, I don't know ?? Hopefully this one will last more than 23 days. I will be looking at replacing next year, maybe a 2024 V4, I will wait and see in oct when they release news of a new Panigale, else will go Yamaha R1 ?!?!?!?
This is why it’s important when riding a Ducati on track to use race fairings and check the belly pan after every session Ask me how I know. Loctite and a torque wrench will become your best friends…
@Spud312r all completely fair points, I can only comment from my experience. The V4’s definitely run hot, on the race weekends where we have had decent weather (few and far between this year!) my bike will regularly be on the 4th bar and indicating 115f/46c+ as I come in mid-race. As soon as the bike is at a standstill the temps rise even with the fans running and the engine off. We now use two leaf blowers to drive air through the radiator and oil cooler for about 10-15 mins which is enough to bring the temps down fairly effectively. It’s not a solution for track days really, I do notice that after a race the extra lap/distance after the flag running significantly reduces the temps. Not surprising really but this highlights that they need airflow to manage the heat effectively. This may or may not help reduce the chance of another water pump failure. Time will tell, I’m hopeful it will.
Yep they run to hot , the 2021 model onwards with the side faring cutouts prove that, even the gear selector/indicator switch now has air flow over it to cool it and stop them failing. I'll keep an eye on the temp gauge to see if it goes up to 4 bars, doubt i'll be able to pack a leaf blower for euro track days though, mind i've seen one of those big diameter wire mesh fans being used I was tempted to buy a larger radiator/oil cooler - but it is a big outlay for a bike that should work on track without over heating I don't know if the 2024 design will address this with more venting, but I hope so
Your guess is as good as mine.. The water pump is not built by Ducati but a third party, who designed it I have no clue, but I'm on revision 7
New bike, water pump gone at 2450 miles. Back to the dealer, quoted 1 month before it can get fixed (Ducati warranty approval + workshop mechanic availability). No track use (was looking forward to taking it to Spain on track and ragging its @$$ super hard). Same happened on my V2 R which I've owned from new. It is what it is. Was looking at a Multistrada for 2024, that's out of the window, already have to many bikes in the workshop, ask @Spud312r
You would think they would make sure they have stocked up on water pumps… Or maybe they did and they have proven to be a popular item.
Workshop foreman said it's only the 2nd one they've had go wrong, must be a newbie. Bean counters in head office must be doing their nut in, big red line on post sale costs column, bet dealers love it.
Most of the race bikes/heavy track bike use I’ve seen requires coolant level when cold to be set at the min level to avoid overflow when hot. This was also the case on all the Daytona 675’s, if you ran them near the middle of the level it just lobbed it out. My MV did the same, I’d say top it up only to the minimum level
Took my '22 V4S to dealer due to coolant overflow. My symptoms are once the bike reaches 3 bars on the temp scale, coolant (water wetter) starts dripping from overflow tubes. Once engine is cut, it burps a bit more coolant then stops dripping. Expansion tank on right is emptied. I'm at ~4500 miles. Wrenches at dealership are scratching their heads, so we'll see what they come up with and I'll report back.
My recollection is Water Wetter requires the coolant jacket to be completely free of any traces of water. Is it possible the system was not fully drained before refilling ? Andy
